AFP – With a collection reinventing the iconic trench coat with a streetwear edge, English designer Daniel Lee brought a breath of fresh air to fashion giant Burberry.
The classics that make up the British brand’s DNA were still there: the trench coat with turned-up collar for men, tartan in shades of grey, beige or cream, and carefully structured outlines.
But even “Burberry icons evolve”, wrote Daniel Lee in his note of intent, as “trench elements are deconstructed and realised in fabrics that feel light: silk poplin and linen”.
For women, the designer remade the trench as a cropped jacket, a halter cape or a parka with shoulders covered in silk organza faux feather trims, layered over delicate dresses or skirts, blending elegance with a sportier, even military style.
For men, the influence of sportswear fashion is even stronger, with lightweight materials and functional cuts, giving rise to outfits of flowing pants and tartan zip-up jackets, paired with sneakers or loafers.
“There’s a tension between looser, fluid fabrics versus leather and pieces inspired by traditional British uniforms,” Lee explained.
The collection also gave a nod to the resurgence of y2k fashion, with low-rise trousers, cargos and capris that end below the knee.
Before the show, Daniel Lee said he admired artist Gary Hume’s “extraordinary use of colour”, and his palette of green, lilac and orange is reflected in the collection, which ends with glamourous gold-sequined dresses.
