Kelupis is a beloved traditional food among Bruneians, as well as those in neighbouring Sabah and Sarawak. Passed down for generations, it comes in various versions, each cherished for its unique flavour and cultural significance.
The Malay traditional delicacy comprises glutinous rice wrapped in either banana leaves or leaves known as daun nyirik (scientifically named phacelophrynium). It can be enjoyed plain or filled with a variety of ingredients, complementing dishes such as curry and rendang.
Kelupis holds a special place in celebrations like weddings, gatherings, and Hari Raya. While its variations depend on regional preferences, many favour the aromatic touch of daun nyirik for their distinct fragrance when steamed with glutinous rice.
In the past, daun nyirik, sourced from trees at the forest’s edge, were abundant and affordable, and often sold for BND1 per 100 pieces at stalls or tamu. However, due to increasing demand, finding them consistently available has become challenging, with prices rising and quantities decreasing significantly. Dayang Halus, renowned for her delicious kelupis, whether plain or filled, shared her experience of sourcing daun nyirik.
She emphasised her preference for daun nyirik over banana leaves due to its aromatic essence, which enhances the rice’s flavour and makes wrapping more convenient.
“Unless I’m really out of daun nyirik, I would then go for banana leaves, but I would let my customers know beforehand, as different leaves gives out a nice smell and flavour for the kelupis when it’s steamed,” said Dayang Halus.She recalled purchasing a 100 nyirik leaves for a dollar in the past, but now, the same amount costs 20 to 30 times more.
Despite this, Dayang Halus maintains her quality and pricing standards, ensuring her customers continue to enjoy her kelupis without compromise.
She suggests that sellers consider providing slightly more leaves or adjusting prices slightly above BND1 to accommodate the diminishing supply of daun nyirik, ensuring this cherished tradition remains accessible to all. – Lyna Mohamad
