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Engraving history

HANOI (ANN/VIETNAM NEWS) – In a world where time never stops, one artist is engraving the spirit of Vietnamese culture onto the face of each ticking moment. Tran Ngoc Chien, 35, first discovered metal engraving through a friend, sparking a journey that merged passion and artistry.

Mr Chien uses a stereo microscope, magnifying from 10 to 50 times, to engrave on such a small surface like watch face, which usually has a diameter of about 32mm. PHOTO: ANN/VIETNAM NEWS

“Before pursuing watch engraving, I explored and mastered metal engraving,” Chien said. “With my love for watches, I wanted to create artistic pieces on watch dials. That’s when I decided to fully commit to watch engraving.”

For Chien, his craft goes beyond precision – it is a celebration of heritage. Drawing from traditional Vietnamese art, including Ly Dynasty dragons and Dong Ho folk motifs, Chien infuses each watch with cultural stories.

“I’ve always deeply appreciated Vietnamese culture and feel great pride in our heritage,” he shared. “Our traditions carry such depth, and incorporating these elements into my designs lets me express that pride.”

The process begins with extensive research, with Chien translating motifs from books and real-life images into detailed engravings. His work, such as the Thoi Sao Chan Trau (Boy Playing Flute While Herding Buffalo) dial, embodies this dedication.

“I love the artwork’s meaning, showing a boy playing the flute while sitting on a buffalo’s back, capturing moments of relaxation after hard work,” Chien explained.

Chien employs advanced techniques like bas-relief on small watch faces, often just 32mm wide, and uses a stereo microscope to magnify his work by 10 to 50 times. He incorporates materials like 24k gold and 925 silver, adding gems for a richer effect.

“To bring the Thoi Sao Chan Trau dial to life, I used bas-relief techniques with a 925 silver dial inlaid with 24k gold,” he said.

Given the niche nature of the craft in Vietnam, Chien and his team customise tools sourced from second-hand markets, adapting even unconventional items like a tattoo machine’s power source.

“Some engraving tips are imported, but we grind them ourselves to suit each stage,” said Luu Truong Sinh, an engraver on Chien’s team.

Sinh highlighted the intricacies of inlaying gold.

“Handling gold is delicate, and any mistake requires significant rework. Balancing precision and pressure is key,” he noted.

While preserving traditional beauty, Mr. Chien adds his own creative touch to each watch. PHOTO: ANN/VIETNAM NEWS
A watch design is called ‘Thoi Sao Chan Trau’ (Boy Playing Flute on Buffalo’s Back), inspired by the Dong Ho painting of the same name. PHOTO: ANN/VIETNAM NEWS

Chien blends tradition with creativity, ensuring each piece reflects both heritage and innovation.

“Replicating images exactly would lack creativity, but respecting their unique details is essential,” he said. His reimagining of the nghê, a mythical creature, on a lotus pedestal for a unique square watch face exemplifies this approach.

“The lotus is familiar to our people, and combined with the nghê, it creates a cohesive design celebrating Vietnamese symbols,” he said.

Looking ahead, Chien’s team aspires to explore even more complex techniques.

“We blend Vietnamese styles, like pearl inlay and bronze hammering, with Western techniques, creating a unique harmony,” Sinh said.

Every watch Chien crafts does more than tell time – it tells the story of Vietnam’s enduring cultural spirit.

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