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    A twist from the ordinary

    AP – Omelettes often are served at breakfast or brunch in most countries, but in plenty of cuisines the dinner table is fair game, too. Which also means you’re not limited to American-style omelettes, which can be overly cheesy, greasy and salty.

    We keep things lighter and more flavourful with Egypt’s spiced frittata-like eggah, which is substantial but balanced, with layer upon layer of flavour thanks to a trio of spices and fresh herbs and scallions.

    It’s a hearty dish, made with shredded potatoes and beef. Turmeric, coriander and allspice infuse the eggah with a warm, inviting fragrance and flavour. In this recipe from our book Tuesday Nights Mediterranean, which features weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we whisk those spices directly into the eggs, along with fresh dill and a little baking powder to provide lift.

    We also shred the potatoes by hand and rinse them under cold water to remove excess starch before wringing them dry.

    We then brown the beef and potatoes with scallion whites to develop deep, savoury flavour, and vigorously scramble them with the spiced egg mixture before transferring the whole thing to the oven to finish.

    Sliced scallion greens and more fresh dill offset the richness of the meat and eggs and add pops of vibrant colour.

    Don’t use ground beef that is fattier than 90 per cent lean, as it will make the omelette greasy. And don’t slice the eggah hot out of the skillet. It’s easier to slice and transfer to a plate once it has cooled a few minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a light salad or a grain side to round out the meal. – Christopher Kimball

    A recipe for spiced beef and potato eggah. PHOTO: MILK STREET
    PHOTO: ENVATO

    SPICED BEEF AND POTATO EGGAH

    Ingredients

    – One teaspoon ground turmeric

    – One teaspoon ground coriander

    – Half teaspoon ground allspice

    – One teaspoon baking powder

    – Kosher salt and ground black pepper

    – Eight large eggs

    – One cup lightly packed fresh dill, chopped

    – 12 ounces russet potatoes, peeled and shredded on the large holes of a box grater

    – Three tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve

    – Eight ounces 90 per cent lean ground beef

    – Four scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts reserved separately

    Directions

    – Heat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (°F) with a rack in the middle position.

    – In a large bowl, whisk together the turmeric, coriander, allspice, baking powder, three-quarter of teaspoon salt and a quarter teaspoon pepper. Add the eggs and half the dill, then whisk until well combined; set aside.

    – Place the shredded potatoes in a colander and rinse under cold water to remove excess starch. Wrap in a clean kitchen towel and wring dry.

    – In an oven-safe 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering.

    – Add the potatoes, beef, scallion whites, a quarter teaspoon salt and half teaspoon pepper.

    – Cook until evenly browned, nine to 12 minutes; at first, stir frequently and break the meat into small bits, then stir only occasionally after browning begins.

    – Pour the egg mixture into the skillet and stir vigorously with a silicone spatula from the edges toward the centre until wet, soft curds form but the eggs remain slightly runny and spreadable, 30 to 60 seconds.

    – Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the eggs are just set, five to six minutes.

    – Remove the pan from the oven (the handle will be hot) and run a silicone spatula around the edge and underneath the omelette to loosen, then slide onto a cutting board.

    – Cool for five minutes. Cut the omelette into six wedges and transfer to a serving plate.

    – Sprinkle with the scallion greens and remaining dill.

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