AP/AFP – Yohji Yamamoto, the venerable Japanese designer renowned for his avant-garde approach to fashion, presented a masterclass collection in dramatic layering and architectural forms. A striking display of armour-like shoulders set the tone for a runway narrative that felt like a visual exploration of a post-apocalyptic warrior’s wardrobe.
The designs, with myriad sleeves erupting from the back of garments, resembled war-torn shrapnel re-imagined into a fashion statement, blending the harsh realities of conflict with the ethereal beauty of resilience.
The punk-inflected collection was emphasised through exaggerated pocket details from tunic dresses, imbuing them with a militaristic air. This was fashion as a form of rebellion, where conventional silhouettes were disrupted and reassembled into something entirely new or unexpected.
Adding to the intrigue were accessories that seemed to borrow from the ceremonial: face nets and square hats paired with angular silhouettes that transitioned seamlessly into interpretations of the Etonian morning suit. This style has captured the fashion world’s imagination this season, apparently.
Yamamoto’s ability to marry the traditional with the avant-garde was on full display, with black and white gowns that evoked the whimsy of a Pierrot doll, morphing effortlessly into skirts adorned with gathered pockets and suit jackets with elongated tails. These pieces, reminiscent of the legendary British designer Vivienne Westwood’s iconic punk-inspired creations, paid homage to a legacy of fashion rebellion while firmly establishing Yamamoto’s collection as a beacon of innovative design.
Throughout the presentation, Yamamoto’s penchant for deconstruction and reconstruction was evident, challenging the audience to reconsider their perceptions of beauty and form.
