Thursday, July 25, 2024
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Undone exposure

AFP/VOGUE – From bed clothes to underclothes. That’s the difference half a year of pandemic living can make. The last time Jonny Johansson was showing off his Acne Studios womenswear on the runway, the concept was duvet dressing.

As a solid Gen X’er, Johansson comes at fashion for the Gen Z shoppers who are the target market these days less by feel than by close observation. “I’m interested in how important it is for them to present themselves,” he said. Elaborating, he said he’s noticed a post-lockdown trend toward undone exposure that spans genders. Johansson has teen boys, and they’re just as free and fashion-curious as their female peers.

On the runway, floral-print blouses that fastened with a single bow in the front were paired up with minis bearing straps and buckles. Corsets got a rework, too, in tooled leather, plaid, or military-grade nylon. And fitted skirts did indeed take their details from girdles, with stretchy side panels and garter snaps – talk about an anachronism.

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