Discover the intricate historical connections of Southeast Asia interwoven into the very essence of women’s fashion.
The kebaya stands as a timeless symbol of tradition, elegance, and heritage, representing one of the most enduring traditional outfits in Southeast Asia. It embodies the region’s rich cultural legacy, showcasing the resilience of its diverse communities.
Recently, this centuries-old icon of ASEAN fashion took centrestage in a showcase, held at Gallery 4 of the Energy Hub Dermaga Diraja at the capital, offering a glimpse into the intricate threads that weave varied cultures together.
Titled ‘Kebaya Exhibition: Knowledge, Skills, Traditions, and Practices’, this showcase featured diverse variations of the traditional garment from various ages and cultures, spanning regions particularly Brunei Darussalam, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore and Indonesia.
The exhibition not only shed light on the historical origins of the kebaya but also emphasised its profound importance at the heart of the region’s heritage.
Furthermore, the event symbolised the collaborative efforts of the aforementioned countries in nominating the kebaya for inclusion in the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage, showcasing the shared commitment to preserving this invaluable cultural treasure.
The kebaya, characterised by its exquisite embroidery, delicate lacework, and graceful silhouette, represents a blend of tradition and sophistication in the form of a blouse-dress combination widely embraced by women across Southeast Asia.
This versatile garment is worn on many occasions, from the casual to the formal, showcasing its adaptability. Its designs and shapes vary significantly, reflecting regional styles, and when worn, the kebaya becomes a powerful symbol of status, femininity and timeless elegance.
The crafting of the kebaya demands specific skills and knowledge, traditionally passed down from mothers to daughters. In the modern age, however, this craft is also formally taught in schools and workshops.
In an interview with Acting Director of Culture and Arts at the Ministry of Culture Youth and Sports (MCYS) and Joint Secretary of the kebaya exhibition Mohammad Abdoh bin Haji Awang Damit, he explained that the nomination of the kebaya is partly in celebration of the UNESCO Convention’s 20th anniversary.
“For the purpose of protecting and preserving this piece of tradition, Brunei, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Thailand have agreed to nominate the kebaya as an intangible cultural heritage.
The senior government official shared that before the nomination, relevant ministries from the five nations held numerous meetings, workshops, and discussions spanning over two years.
This effort persisted even during the COVID-19 pandemic. The official added that the final decision regarding the recognition of the kebaya will be made next year.
“When nominating the kebaya for UNESCO recognition, the aim is not to assess how unique a certain kebaya is, but rather to consider how the practice of wearing kebaya continues to be part of the ASEAN identity.”
Mohammad Abdoh then expressed his hope that the exhibition will be able educate visitors and the general public about the significance of the kebaya as an intangible cultural heritage, encouraging its appreciation, practice and preservation.
He then emphasised the exhibition’s goal to safeguard the art of creating the kebaya, underscoring the importance for the younger generation to uphold this existing cultural heritage as it encompasses various aspects of Malay customs including attire, manners and language.
In Brunei, several types of kebaya are prevalent, such as the kebaya panjang (the long kebaya), the kebaya bandung and the kebaya buntak (short kebaya).
According to Mohammad Abdoh, historically in the Sultanate, kebaya were not confined to festive or cultural occasions as Bruneian women in the 50s, 60s, and 70s wore them as daily attire or folk dress.
The materials, designs, and accessories, he added, varied based on the occasion, emphasising the wearer’s status.
The kebaya panjang, adopted from Portuguese designs in Malacca during the 16th and 17th Centuries, became popular among Chinese Peranakan communities.
The kebaya bandung was introduced in the 1950s and features a long-sleeved blouse made of cotton material, with a V-shaped cut at the bottom front.
The kebaya buntak was also introduced in the 1950s however it only gained popularity in the 1960s and 1970s. A figure-hugging blouse, the short kebaya was quite popular among young women.
The kebaya exhibition also saw the participation of four key agencies, namely Bank Islam Brunei Darussalam, Royal Brunei Airlines, Brunei Darussalam Fashion Designer Association and Lamin Warisan, who were actively engaged during the event to enhance the promotion of kebaya practices, skills, knowledge and traditions. – Rokiah Mahmud
