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    Scientists explore Antarctica’s ‘doomsday’ glacier

    Seth Borenstein

    AP – A team of scientists are sailing to “the place in the world that’s the hardest to get to” so they can better figure out how much and how fast seas will rise because of global warming eating away at Antarctica’s ice.

    Thirty-two scientists yesterday are starting a more than two-month mission aboard an American research ship to investigate the crucial area where the massive but melting Thwaites glacier faces the Amundsen Sea and may eventually lose large amounts of ice because of warm water. The Florida-sized glacier has gotten the nickname the “doomsday glacier” because of how much ice it has and how much seas could rise if it all melts – more than 65 centimetres over hundreds of years.

    Because of its importance, the United States (US) and the United Kingdom (UK) are in the midst of a joint USD50 million mission to study Thwaites, the widest glacier in the world by land and sea. Not near any of the continent’s research stations, Thwaites is on Antarctica’s western half, east of the jutting Antarctic Peninsula, which used to be the area scientists worried most about.

    “Thwaites is the main reason I would say that we have so large an uncertainty in the projections of future sea level rise and that is because it’s a very remote area, difficult to reach,” oceanographer from the University of Gothenburg in Sweden Anna Wahlin said on Wednesday in an interview from the Research Vessel Nathaniel B Palmer, which was scheduled to leave its port in Chile hours later.

    “It is configured in a way so that it’s potentially unstable. And that is why we are worried about this.”

    The Thwaites glacier in Antarctica. PHOTO: AP

    Thwaites is putting about 50 billion tonnes of ice into the water a year. The British Antarctic Survey says the glacier is responsible for four per cent of global sea rise, and the conditions leading to it to lose more ice are accelerating, University of Colorado ice scientist Ted Scambos said from the McMurdo land station last month.

    Oregon State University ice scientist Erin Pettit said Thwaites appears to be collapsing in three ways: Melting from below by ocean water; the land part of the glacier “is losing its grip” to the place it attaches to the seabed, so a large chunk can come off into the ocean and later melt; and the glacier’s ice shelf is breaking into hundreds of fractures like a damaged car windshield. This is what Pettit said she fears will be the most troublesome with 10-kilometre long cracks forming in just a year.

    No one has stepped foot before on the key ice-water interface at Thwaites before. In 2019, Wahlin was on a team that explored the area from a ship using a robotic ship but never went ashore.

    Wahlin’s team will use two robot ships – her own large one called Ran which she used in 2019 and the more agile Boaty McBoatface, the crowdsource named drone that could go further under the area of Thwaites that protrudes over the ocean – to get under Thwaites.

    The ship-bound scientists will be measuring water temperature, the sea floor and ice thickness. They’ll look at cracks in the ice, how the ice is structured and tag seals on islands off the glacier.

    Thwaites “looks different from other ice shelves”, Wahlin said. “It almost looks like a jumble of icebergs that have been pressed together. So it’s increasingly clear that this is not a solid piece of ice like the other ice shelves are, nice smooth solid ice. This was much more jagged and scarred.”

    Chelsea take control as Spurs splutter in League Cup semi

    LONDON (AFP) – Thomas Tuchel warned Chelsea their League Cup semi-final against Tottenham is not over yet after they took control of the tie with a 2-0 first leg win early yesterday.

    Tuchel’s side are within touching distance of a first League Cup final appearance since 2019 after brushing aside Tottenham at Stamford Bridge.

    Kai Havertz put Chelsea ahead with a deflected strike before Ben Davies’s farcical own goal increased their lead before half-time.

    Although Chelsea were unable to completely kill off their London rivals, they head to Tottenham for the second leg on January 12 as firm favourites to reach the final against Liverpool or Arsenal.

    Liverpool’s semi-final first leg, scheduled yesterday, has been postponed until next week after a significant coronavirus outbreak among Jurgen Klopp’s squad.

    Chelsea’s victory was their first in three games, building on their spirited fightback from two goals down to draw 2-2 against Liverpool on Sunday.

    Chelsea’s Romelu Lukaku duels for the ball with Tottenham’s Davinson Sanchez during the English League Cup semifinal first leg match. PHOTO: AP

    “It seems like a deserved win, an excellent result because it reflects the game. We could have scored more but it is hard to score against Tottenham,” Tuchel said.

    “We did create a lot, some huge chances. The up-side is everybody knows it is going to be a tough match in the second leg. It’s not decided yet.”

    With Romelu Lukaku back in the fold, albeit once again looking far from his best, Tuchel will hope he has navigated a storm that threatened to derail Chelsea’s season.

    Lukaku, Chelsea’s club record GBP97.5 million signing from Inter Milan last year, was dropped for the Liverpool game after he gave an interview that featured criticism of the way he was being used by Tuchel.

    But Tuchel said he held “calm” talks with the Belgium striker on Monday and restored him to the team to face Tottenham after he issued an apology.

    “I was pretty sure he was not affected. Even the last days he seemed relaxed, fine with the situation and mentally moved on,” Tuchel said. “Romelu can handle pressure and adversity, it was a good performance, he contributed a lot to our defensive set up and had chances.”

    Ironically, Lukaku’s return came against Tottenham boss Antonio Conte, who got the best out of him during their Serie A-winning spell together at Inter.

    Conte was back at Chelsea for the first time since being sacked in 2018 despite winning the Premier League and FA Cup in his two-year reign.

    The Italian claimed earlier this season that Chelsea had yet to work out how to get the best out of Lukaku, but he has plenty of work to do with his own team on the evidence of Tottenham’s spluttering display.

    “It was a difficult game. Chelsea were much better than us. If you compare the teams there is not a comparison,” Conte said.

    “Today we have seen the difference between the teams. If we think we are close (to Chelsea), I think we are not in the right way.”

    Lukaku was greeted with surprisingly little venom from the Chelsea fans, a reception perhaps helped by their side making the perfect start in the fifth minute.

    Japhet Tanganga played Emerson Royal into trouble deep inside the Tottenham half and Marcos Alonso pounced to steal possession.

    Alonso slipped his pass behind the out of position Tanganga to Havertz, whose close-range shot deflected in off Davinson Sanchez for his first goal since November 6.

    Lukaku had a role in Chelsea’s second goal in the 34th minute as his persistence drew a foul from Sanchez.

    Gifts for new credit card users

    New Standard Chartered credit card applicants can receive up to BND250 worth of vouchers when they meet a minimum accumulative spending with their new credit card from now until June 30.

    The first 400 clients to sign up for a Standard Chartered credit card and spend BND500 within the promotion period will receive shopping vouchers at the two of Brunei’s biggest tech stores.

    Clients who apply for Standard Chartered Visa Credit Card and meet the minimum spend will be eligible to a BND150 voucher from QQestore in addition to a five-year annual fee waiver.

    Meanwhile, new applicants who signed up for a Standard Chartered Visa Credit Card with salary assignment and meet the minimum spend of BND500 during the promotion period will be entitled to perpetual annual fee waiver and BND250 shopping voucher from AV Electronics.

    Head of Retail Products and Digital Jacky Teo said: “At Standard Chartered, we want to reward our client for choosing Standard Chartered as their financial partner of choice. We have always put clients’ wants and needs at the heart of everything we do and everything we stand for. By simply utilising our credit cards, they are entitled to discounts and rewards at various local and online merchants and also gain access to an international world of benefits across global markets which complement their lifestyles.”

    The first 400 customers who have met the required spending amount during the promotion period will be notified via SMS.

    A different kind of COVID surge

    AP – Hospitals across the United States (US) are feeling the wrath of the Omicron variant and getting thrown into disarray that is different from earlier COVID-19 surges.

    This time, they are dealing with serious staff shortages because so many healthcare workers are getting sick with the fast-spreading variant. People are showing up at emergency rooms in large numbers in hopes of getting tested for COVID-19, putting more strain on the system.

    And a surprising share of patients – two-thirds in some places – are testing positive while in the hospital for other reasons.

    At the same time, hospitals said the patients aren’t as sick as those who came in during the last surge. Intensive care units aren’t as full, and ventilators aren’t needed as much as they were before.

    The pressures are neverthless prompting hospitals to scale back non-emergency surgeries and close wards, while National Guard troops have been sent in several states to help at medical centres and testing sites.

    Nearly two years into the pandemic, frustration and exhaustion are running high among health care workers.

    Chief clinical officer at Dartmouth-Hitchcock Health Edward Merrens visits a COVID-19 patient; and Patient Fred Rutherford, who is recovering from COVID-19, speaks on a telephone with a reporter from The Associated Press. PHOTOS: AP

    Registered nurse Emily Yu talks to Paul Altamirano, a 50-year-old COVID-19 patient, at Providence Holy Cross Medical Centre in Los Angeles

    “This is getting very tiring, and I’m being very polite in saying that,” said Dr Robert Glasgow of University of Utah Health, which has hundreds of workers out sick or in isolation.

    About 85,000 Americans are in the hospital with COVID-19, just short of the Delta-surge peak of about 94,000 in early September, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The all-time high during the pandemic was about 125,000 in January of last year.

    But the hospitalisation numbers do not tell the whole story. Some cases in the official count involve COVID-19 infections that weren’t what put the patients in the hospital in the first place.

    Chief of hospital operations at NYU Langone Health in New York City Dr Fritz François said about 65 per cent of patients admitted to that system with COVID-19 recently were primarily hospitalised for something else and were incidentally found to have the virus.

    At two large Seattle hospitals over the past two weeks, three-quarters of the 64 patients testing positive for the coronavirus were admitted with a primary diagnosis other than COVID-19.

    Joanne Spetz, associate director of research at the Healthforce Center at the University of California, San Francisco, said the rising number of cases like that is both good and bad.

    The lack of symptoms shows vaccines, boosters and natural immunity from prior infections are working, she said. The bad news is that the numbers mean the coronavirus is spreading rapidly, and some percentage of those people will wind up needing hospitalisation.

    This week, 36 per cent of California hospitals reported critical staffing shortages. And 40 per cent are expecting such shortages.

    Some hospitals are reporting as much as one quarter of their staff out for virus-related reasons, said Kiyomi Burchill, the California Hospital Association’s vice president for policy and leader on pandemic matters.

    In response, hospitals are turning to temporary staffing agencies or transferring patients out.

    University of Utah Health plans to keep more than 50 beds open because it doesn’t have enough nurses. It is also rescheduling surgeries that aren’t urgent. In Florida, a hospital temporarily closed its maternity ward because of staff shortages.

    In Alabama, where most of the population is unvaccinated, UAB Health in Birmingham put out an urgent request for people to go elsewhere for COVID-19 tests or minor symptoms and stay home for all but true emergencies. Treatment rooms were so crowded that some patients had to be evaluated in hallways and closets.

    As of Monday, New York state had just over 10,000 people in the hospital with COVID-19, including 5,500 in New York City. That’s the most in either the city or state since the disastrous spring of 2020.

    New York City hospital officials, though, reported that things haven’t become dire.

    Generally, the patients aren’t as sick as they were back then. Of the patients hospitalised in New York City, around 600 were in ICU beds.

    “We’re not even halfway to what we were in April 2020,” said the physician-in-chief for Northwell Health Dr David Battinelli, New York state’s largest hospital system.

    Similarly, in Washington state, the number of COVID-19-infected people on ventilators increased over the past two weeks, but the share of patients needing such equipment dropped.

    In South Carolina, which is seeing unprecedented numbers of new cases and a sharp rise in hospitalisations, Governor Henry McMaster took note of the seemingly less-serious variant and said: “There’s no need to panic. Be calm. Be happy.”

    Amid the Omicron-triggered surge in demand for COVID-19 testing across the US, New York City’s Fire Department is asking people not to call for ambulance just because they are having trouble finding a test.

    In Ohio, Governor Mike DeWine announced new or expanded testing sites in nine cities to steer test-seekers away from ERs. About 300 National Guard members are being sent to help out at those centres.

    In Connecticut, many ER patients are in beds in hallways, and nurses are often working double shifts because of staffing shortages, said Sherri Dayton, a nurse at the Backus Plainfield Emergency Care Center. Many emergency rooms have hours-long waiting times, she said.

    “We are drowning. We are exhausted,” Dayton said.

    Doctors and nurses are complaining about burnout and a sense their neighbours are no longer treating the pandemic as a crisis, despite day after day of record COVID-19 cases.

    “In the past, we didn’t have the vaccine, so it was us all hands together, all the support. But that support has kind of dwindled from the community, and people seem to be moving on without us,” said Rachel Chamberlin, a nurse at New Hampshire’s Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center.

    Edward Merrens, chief clinical officer at Dartmouth-Hitchcock Health, said more than 85 per cent of the hospitalised COVID-19 patients were unvaccinated.

    Several patients in the hospital’s COVID-19 ICU unit were on ventilators, a breathing tube down their throats. In one room, staff members made preparations for what they feared would be the final family visit for a dying patient.

    Tourism in Japan for BIMP-EAGA stakeholders

    Azlan Othman

    The ASEAN-Japan Centre (AJC) will organise a webinar for tourism stakeholders in the Brunei Darussalam-Indonesia-Malaysia-Philippines East ASEAN Growth Area (BIMP-EAGA) on January 12.

    The webinar is designed to offer the latest information on the Japanese travel market and introduce how to promote tourist attractions within BIMP-EAGA to Japan.

    The BIMP-EAGA was launched in 1994 to spur development in remote and less developed areas in the four participating Southeast Asian countries.

    These countries are geographically far from the national capitals, yet strategically close to each other.

    These states and provinces account for over 60 per cent of the land area of the BIMP-EAGA countries; yet they make up less than 20 per cent of their population and 18 per cent of the labour force.

    The five strategic pillars of BIMP-EAGA Vision 2025 are Connectivity, Food Basket, Environment, and Socio-cultural and Education, and Tourism.

    The upcoming tourism webinar will introduce interesting updates and trends of the Japanese market such as consumer sentiments of Japanese travellers and focus on ecotourism, one of the strengths of the region.

    It will also provide information on the digital marketing for tourism promotion.

    Asset manager Huarong plunges 50pc as trading resumes

    BEIJING (AFP) – Shares in China’s state-owned debt collector Huarong Asset Management plummeted 50 per cent on Wednesday as trading resumed in Hong Kong after a USD6.6 billion state-orchestrated bailout of the embattled company.

    The company’s Hong Kong-traded shares were suspended in April last year after it delayed its annual report, spooking Asian markets.

    When Huarong published its results in August, it revealed a record USD15.9 billion loss for 2020 and outlined a rescue plan.

    On Wednesday, its share price slid from HKD1.02 (USD0.13) to HKD0.51 by day-end, closing 50 per cent down.

    The plunge follows a filing late on Tuesday in which Huarong said it would return to its core business, adjust its structure, cut capital consumption and boost returns.

    The China Huarong Asset Management Co headquarters in Beijing. PHOTO: BLOOMBERG

    Business operations of the group are continuing as usual, it added.

    Huarong has also completed a recapitalisation of HKD42 billion from a group of state-backed investors, and started disposals of assets.

    “The valuation achieved by the disposals will determine its capital buffer… and will be key in absorbing losses,” said Fitch Ratings in a report last month.

    Fitch added that “near-term asset risk at its core business and leverage will stay elevated due to its weak asset quality and business nature”.

    Huarong’s shares plummet comes as troubled real estate giant Evergrande was labelled as being in default by a ratings firm last month after failing to make repayments on time.

    Observers said a state-backed lifeline is not likely for the developer as Beijing looks to rein in excessive debt in the sector.

    Dogs to visit 3 US school districts to sniff out COVID-19

    BOSTON (AP) – Two dogs trained to detect an odour distinct to people who are sick with COVID-19 will visit three school districts in Bristol County in the United States (US) this week.

    A black Labrador named Huntah and a golden Lab called Duke can detect the smell of the virus on surfaces and will sit to indicate when they pick up the scent.

    The dogs will visit schools in the Freetown, Lakeville and Norton school districts, WBZ-TV reported on Tuesday.

    “With COVID, whether it’s the Omicron, whether it’s the Delta, our dogs will hit on it,” said Bristol County Captain Paul Douglas. “And if there’s a new variant that comes out in six months, hopefully there isn’t, but if there is one, COVID is COVID.”

    Mavericks beat Warriors 99-82 on Nowitzki’s night

    DALLAS (AP) – Stephen Curry knows he didn’t exactly honour the legacy of the NBA’s best seven-foot three-point shooter on the night the Dallas Mavericks retired Dirk Nowitzki’s number against the Golden State Warriors.

    The league’s most prolific player from deep isn’t concerned about the mini-slump he couldn’t shake.

    Luka Doncic scored 26 points and the Mavericks celebrated the retirement of Nowitzki’s number 41 by beating the cold-shooting Curry and the Warriors 99-82 yesterday.

    “The body of work over the course of this year’s been pretty solid,” said Curry, who scored 14 points and made just five of 24 shots coming off his worst shooting night of the season.

    “This stretch has not been great not up to my standards. So you’ve just to stick to the programme. It’ll come around.”

    The Mavericks knew the night belonged to their franchise icon, and that Nowitzki’s number 41 wasn’t going to the rafters until after they played the team with the NBA’s best record coming in.

    Dallas Mavericks guard Luka Doncic shoots against Golden State Warriors forward Nemanja Bjelica during the game. PHOTO: AP

    Dallas responded with its first four-game winning streak of the season in Doncic’s third game back since a career-long, 10-game absence caused by left ankle and knee issues and a positive COVID-19 test.

    Playing without European sidekick Kristaps Porzingis, who went into the health and safety protocols just as Doncic came out, Dallas’ 22-year-old sensation played aggressively and was 10 of 12 on free throws with eight assists and seven rebounds.

    The only concern for the Mavericks was Doncic limping off the floor in the final two minutes and not returning. He said his tweaked right ankle wasn’t a concern.

    “There are so many things going through your head,” said Jason Kidd, the point guard when Nowitzki led the Mavericks to their only championship in 2011 and now the Dallas coach who wore a green Nowitzki jersey to his meeting with reporters before and after the game.

    “You know the Warriors are going to score. Steph is going to make 3s. We just tried to make it as tough as possible and on offence take care of the ball. And our defence did a great job in giving us a chance to win.”

    Curry was one of nine from three-point range and is eight of 41 overall the past two games.

    After missing all five attempts from deep before halftime, Curry connected nine seconds into the second half but couldn’t keep it going as Golden State missed a chance to be the first team to 30 victories and had a season low in points.

    “Everyone’s throwing everything at him,” coach Steve Kerr said.

    “Their best defender. Their double teams. They’re trying to make it as difficult as possible. I thought tonight he pressed a little bit. He’s trying hard to get out of it.”

    Andrew Wiggins scored 17 points for Golden State. At 29-8, the Warriors dropped into a tie with the Phoenix Suns for the best record in the NBA.

    Dorian Finney-Smith scored 15 of his 17 points in the second half and had nine rebounds and two blocks – one when he stripped Draymond Green on a dunk attempt and the other when Curry drove for a layup.

    The Warriors were down nine but getting stops late in the fourth quarter when Curry missed badly from three, and Jalen Brunson scored the next four points to put Dallas up 13. Brunson finished with 15 points. The Warriors shot a season-worst 18 per cent from three (five of 28).

    “Dallas played great defence tonight,” Kerr said. “They were the more physical team. I thought they just took it to us right from the beginning of the game. We just couldn’t find a rhythm.”

    What happens when people stop buying books?

    Reis Thebault & Quentin Ariès

    REDU, BELGIUM (THE WASHINGTON POST) – Nearly 40 years ago, books saved this village.
    The community was shrinking fast. Farming jobs had disappeared and families were moving away from this pastoral patch of French-speaking Belgium.

    But in the mid-1980s, a band of booksellers moved into the empty barns and transformed the place into a literary lodestone. The village of about 400 became home to more than two dozen bookstores – more shops than cows, its boosters liked to say – and thousands of tourists thronged the winsome streets.

    Now, though, more than half the bookstores have closed. Some of the storekeepers died, others left when they could no longer make a living. Many who remain are in their 70s and aren’t sure what’ll happen after they’re gone.

    It’s not just the businesses at risk. It’s Redu’s identity.

    This is a place that celebrates itself as a village du livre, a book town. Its public lampposts and trash cans are adorned with bibliophilic hieroglyphs.

    But what happens when the main attractions become less attractive? This is the challenge the village du livre must now confront.

    “Life is changing, but nothing is dying,” said Mayor Anne Laffut of Libin, the municipality where Redu sits. “Everything is evolving.”

    ABOVE & BELOW: La Librairie Ardennaise, one of the oldest bookstores in Redu, Belgium, has about 30,000 volumes; and Miep van Duin, owner of De Eglantier and Crazy Castle, plans to run it until she’s no longer able. PHOTOS: THE WASHINGTON POST

    Redu holds a vaunted place in the history of book towns, an honorific that originated with an eccentric Brit who brought hundreds of thousands of books to the Welsh market town Hay-on-Wye in the 1960s.

    Richard Booth, who died in 2019, transformed Hay into a global capital of used books, attracting numerous booksellers and opening a half-dozen shops of his own.

    Booth’s success inspired struggling rural communities around the world to remake themselves as book towns, hoping to attract tourists and jump-start their economies. Redu was the first copycat.

    Spurred by a visit to Hay in the late 1970s, part-time Redu resident Noel Anselot hatched a similar strategy for his weekend home, according to a brief history of the place by Miep van Duin, who at 76 is one of the village’s longest tenured booksellers.

    On Easter weekend in 1984, roughly 15,000 people descended on Redu, perusing the used and antiquarian volumes vendors sold out of abandoned stables and sidewalk stalls. The booksellers decided to stay. Others soon followed, along with an illustrator, a bookbinder and a paper maker. It was an eclectic, countercultural crowd. Young families arrived, too, and new students trickled into the faded schoolhouse.

    The pièce de résistance: For the first time in years, Redu had its own bakery.

    The village, van Duin concluded, had been reborn.

    “It was much more lively then than it is now,” she said.

    Now there are 12 or fewer bookshops, depending on how one counts – and, perhaps, who is doing the counting. Those who are more optimistic about the future of the bookstores tend to cite a higher number.

    Those who are less hopeful say their trade has fallen out of fashion, and that people, especially young people, are reading fewer books.

    “The clientele is ageing and is even disappearing,” said owner of La Librairie Ardennaise Paul Brandeleer.

    Brandeleer was among the pioneers of Easter ‘84. His inventory includes tomes that are hundreds of years old.

    Now, at 73, he’s living off his retirement pension. A sign in front of his store used to advertise his services as achat – vente, buying and selling, but the former has been crossed out. He doesn’t want any more books.

    “I have 30,000 books, but when we disappear, they will go to the trash,” Brandeleer said.

    “We have no kids to take over, they are not interested.”

    Surveying his shop’s rows of books, its low ceiling and brick walls, he offered a metaphor pulled from the stacks: “I think we are the last of the Mohicans.”

    Down the road, the owner of Bouquinerie Générale – a store that specialises in bandes dessinées, French-language comics also known as BDs – had his own genre-appropriate comparison.

    “We are like Asterix: The last village fighting everyone,” said Bob Gossens, invoking the French comic book series about a small Gallic village that resists the Roman Empire.

    In his telling, the Romans might be global tech companies or Silicon Valley entrepreneurs, pulling his clientele away one app at a time.

    “The Internet is breaking everything,” the 73-year-old said.

    Nowadays, Gossens gets few customers aside from a core group of regulars who come for his rare editions. Those who do stop in, he has noticed, tend to treat the place like an exhibit of artefacts from another age, rather than a still-functioning store.

    “They come here like they go to the museum,” he said.

    Gossens does not predict a storybook ending for the shops in his village: “We will die a natural death,” he said.

    A founding member of the International Organization of Book Towns, Redu is part of a network of similarly situated communes. Van Duin, who was the group’s first board president, said the still-thriving book towns are in Britain, including Scotland’s Wigtown, which hosts a renowned literary festival.

    “When you go to a book town in the United Kingdom (UK) in November, sometimes you have to wait before you can pay,” van Duin said. “And here, when somebody comes in in November and buys a book, I could kiss him.”

    While a return to the glory days is probably out of reach, van Duin is hopeful that Redu will retain its artistic vibe, even if the bookstores continue to become less plentiful.

    “It will stay a special village, because that’s the reputation and that doesn’t die very quick,” she said.

    This is a natural process in a village life cycle, said Maarten Loopmans, a geography professor at Belgium’s KU Leuven. If a community like Redu is to survive, eventually a new generation must take over and strike a balance between “livability for themselves and, at the same time, an asset to sell to the outer world,” he said.

    “I’m pretty sure it will still be attractive to tourists,” Loopmans added. “But it will need to reinvent itself with a new story that is more attractive these days.”

    When Johan Deflander and Anthe Vrijlandt moved to Redu about six years ago, the couple’s friends warned them they were making a mistake.

    “Everyone said, ‘Oh you’re going to buy a house in Redu? Isn’t that the village that’s going to die? Where they used to have bookshops?’ “ Deflander said.

    The couple, who are in their early 50s and live part of the year in Kenya, wanted to open a new kind of establishment, one that moves beyond the “stuffy, old, bankrupt secondhand bookshop idea,” Vrijlandt said.

    “It’s all in the narrative, you know?” Deflander said. “Some of the people who have been here for a longer term, they have difficulties changing the narrative. While we -“

    “While we have the luxury of not being stuck in the past,” Vrijlandt finished.

    Their shop, La Reduiste, hosts jazz nights and film screenings, in addition to selling books in multiple languages and serving espresso and Belgian beer. Books – or, perhaps just as important, the idea of books as symbols of comfort or quaint sophistication – remain at the centre of the business, which is a model the two say could be replicated villagewide. La Reduiste, they said, is profitable.

    “The future is looking in the linkages between books and art in general,” Deflander said, as he and Vrijlandt took turns running the bar and greeting customers. “You can do a lot of interesting cultural activities if you open it up from just selling books.”

    One of Redu’s most immediate concerns revolves around the schoolhouse, a stately but abandoned stone building at the centre of town. Laffut, the mayor, called a meeting to discuss possible future uses of the building and some 70 people showed up – nearly a quarter of the village’s population. The enthusiasm was uplifting, she said.

    “There is a change of mentalities,” Laffut said. “The elders think the village is changing because there are fewer bookstores and it is a disappointment. But there is a new generation, which is very active in Redu. Many volunteers are teaming up with the same desire for the village to continue to endure.”

    Laffut, who has been the municipality’s mayor for 15 years, said she is no longer worried about Redu’s future. The village’s location in the Belgian Ardennes, a vast region of forests and rolling hills, means it should continue to bring in nature lovers, she said, and its handful of restaurants and proximity to the Euro Space Center also help.

    But perhaps the most significant recent development was the arrival of Mudia, an interactive art museum that opened in 2018 in a former vicar’s house, which displays works by Picasso, Rodin and Magritte. The museum has bolstered Redu’s reputation as a viable destination for sculptors and painters, and it is the most prominent example of the book town’s transition to an arts town.

    Roland Vanderheyden has a foot in both Redu’s past and future. He worked full time as a bookbinder for six decades until cutting back in recent years to become a painter. Now, in the four rooms where his workshop used to be, he operates a gallery with his wife, Annie Kwasny. They’re both 75 and convinced this is Redu’s path forward.

    “We created this gallery to move the village toward the arts,” Kwasny said. “We are in the middle of a transition, really.”

    Some, like van Duin, are content watching such changes unfold. Her shop, De Eglantier and Crazy Castle, is connected to her home, and she plans to run it until she’s no longer able.

    Her bookstore – a renovated and well-appointed barn with an English-language section in the former hayloft – exemplifies Redu’s last great evolution, from a farming community in decline to a locus of letters.

    “There’s a natural process of change,” she said. “It’s inevitable, I think.”

    After a recent interview, van Duin flipped the sign on her shop’s front door back to open and took her seat behind the till, awaiting the village’s next chapter.

    Cambodian leader to make controversial visit to Myanmar

    BANGKOK (AP) Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen (AP; pic below) begins a visit to strife-torn Myanmar today that he hopes will invigorate efforts by Southeast Asian nations to start a peace process, but critics say will legitimise the rule of the military that seized power last year and its campaign of violence.

    Hun Sen, whose country holds the rotating chair of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, or ASEAN, plans to meet with Myanmar’s leader, Senior General Min Aung Hlaing, in an effort to promote a five-point plan endorsed by the group last year and bring about a cease-fire.

    “What I would like to bring to the talks is nothing besides the five points, consensus points that were agreed upon by all ASEAN member states,” he said late Wednesday.

    They include a halt to violence, talks with the opposition on a peaceful resolution, and permission for a special ASEAN envoy to meet and mediate with all parties in the conflict.

    ASEAN leaders, including Min Aung Hlaing, agreed on those points last April. He was barred in October from attending ASEAN meetings after the group’s envoy was prevented from meeting arrested opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi and other detainees.

    Cambodian Foreign Minister Prak Sokhonn, the current special envoy, said Hun Sen’s two-day trip is warranted because the situation in Myanmar is deteriorating rapidly.

    Myanmar’s military has said Hun Sen will not be allowed to meet Suu Kyi.
    Critics and Myanmar’s opposition say Hun Sen’s visit will add legitimacy to a military that is an international pariah with a history of bloodshed, including a brutal campaign against the Rohingya minority.

    It is considered unlikely that opposition groups, including those engaged in armed struggle, will readily accept ASEAN’s plan as long as the military remains in power.

    “I expect that ultimately the progress or failure to progress will depend on domestic politics and domestic developments in Myanmar. And in fact, there is not much that ASEAN or the chairman of ASEAN can do,” said senior lecturer Astrid Noren-Nilsson at the Centre for East and South-East Asian Studies at Lund University in Sweden.

    Hun Sen’s trip “is very good news for Myanmar’s military government, of course, a visit by a head of government from the region is in itself a legitimisation of the junta government,” she said in an interview.

    The army seized power last February, preventing Suu Kyi’s National League for Democracy party from beginning a second term in office. The party had won a landslide victory in national elections in November 2020.

    The National Unity Government, an underground opposition group and parallel administration urged Hun Sen to stay away.

    “Meeting Min Aung Hlaing, shaking blood-stained hands. It’s not going to be acceptable,” said Dr Sasa, a spokesman for the group who uses one name.

    Indonesian President President Joko Widodo said Myanmar’s leader will continue to be excluded from ASEAN meetings unless some progress is made.

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