Within the Hari Raya Aidilfitri celebration lies not only moments of joy as friends and families rekindle and enjoy each other’s company together in celebrating the euphoric festivities, but also a cherished tradition surpassing generations, connecting families through the tantalising aroma of freshly baked kuih.
These delectable treats, meticulously crafted in homes for generations across communities, symbolise more than just culinary delights; they encapsulate the spirit of togetherness, love and heritage.
In an age marked by rapid technological advancements and ever-changing cultural landscapes, the steadfast embrace of tradition holds a profound significance, anchoring us to our roots and preserving the essence of our heritage.
Nowhere is this more evident than in the timeless ritual of passing down baking recipes from one generation to the next.
Beyond the mere act of mixing ingredients and baking confections, these cherished recipes serve as vessels of familial history, carrying with them stories, memories, and a tangible connection to our ancestors.
As such, maintaining these traditional recipes that have been passed down for generations is of utmost importance as seen in one of the many booths set up by the PERTIWI Association each year for the Hari Raya Aidilfitri celebration.
While each booth offered a variety of homemade products and goods, many of them were stacked with familiar delicacies deeply rooted in tradition as Salbiah binti Sidup, a 60-year-old who tended her booth highlighted.
“Some of the kuih that I have made this year (for the booth sale) include kuih bahulu, kuih sapit, kuih jala and more,” adding that many of these traditional kuih have been consistently popular over the years.
She recalled how many of these traditional recipes were passed down from her mother which she further expanded on through self-taught cooking.
Entering her sixth decade of life, she has gradually transitioned from being solely a baker to becoming a steward of tradition, eagerly imparting her wealth of knowledge and expertise to the younger generations.
“I think it’s important to keep on maintaining the baking of our traditional kuih as it is not only enjoyed by many but also as a way to pass down our heritage and traditions to the next generation,” said the 60-year-old.
While she has consistently prepared the traditional kuih as part of PERTIWI Association’s booth sale for the Hari Raya season for over 30 years, she noted that, “Based on my yearly observations, there is a consistent eagerness among people to seek and purchase the traditional kuih, not only during festive occasions like Hari Raya but also throughout the year.”
Likewise, 67-year-old Jumaini binti Haji Abu Bakar, who manned her booth at the event, emphasised the enduring demand for traditional kuih.
She persists in crafting these delicacies using recipes handed down through generations, a testament to their timeless appeal.
Among her earliest creations were puteri mandi and tapai, marking the inception of her journey into the world of kuih-making. Over the course of three decades, she dedicated herself to refining her craft, resulting in a repertoire that now includes kuih mata kucing, kek lapis, kek tapak kuda, kek batik and a myriad of others, all proudly showcased during this recent Hari Raya celebration.
Moreover, beyond the delight and happiness that her delicious kuih brings to family gatherings, Jumaini pointed out that baking traditional kuih also fosters a sense of self-sufficiency, offering an opportunity to rely on one’s own skills and resources.
“This (baking of traditional kuih) is something I plan to continue in the future as it provides avenues for us single mothers to find opportunities to find side income, while also maintaining the traditional recipes of our beloved kuih-muih.”
Meanwhile, individuals like 60-year-old Roslina binti Abdullah has taken proactive steps to reignite their passion for baking kuih. Beginning from scratch, they learn the art from seasoned veteran bakers like Jumaini and Salbiah, embracing the opportunity to revive this cherished culinary tradition.
Having embarked on her kuih-baking journey seven years ago, she reflected, “In the past, I merely watched traditional kuih being baked quietly. However, as time passed, the encouragement from fellow senior citizens from PERTIWI Association inspired me to take up baking traditional kuih myself.”
During this year’s Hari Raya sale, one facet of traditional kuih she emphasised was traditional biscuits. “Baking biscuits comes naturally to me,” she explained.
“While I find baking cakes and kuih to be challenging, my interest lies particularly in crafting biscuits.”
Among the biscuits she prepared for the booth sale were dahlia biscuit (or semperit biscuit) and batang buruk, both of which garnered great appreciation from those who sampled them.
“I find immense satisfaction in baking these traditional biscuits because their taste evokes a deep sense of nostalgia that modern biscuits simply cannot replicate.
“That’s why I make every effort to adhere closely to the original recipes, aiming to reignite that nostalgic feeling for everyone who tries them.”
She added that she holds the fervent hope that the recipes of traditional kuih will persistently be passed down through generations as various initiatives undertaken by the PERTIWI Association over the years aim precisely at this, offering a platform for youth to engage with and learn from the elderly, ensuring the transmission of invaluable knowledge and skills to the younger generations. – Daniel Lim
