ANN/CHINA DAILY – As the sweltering days of summer approach on China, modern day individuals choose apparel that is light and thin. However, this is not a new trend.
Unlike the lavish apparel commonly represented in television shows, ancient Chinese wore clothing that was lighter and thinner than modern imaginations can comprehend.
Summer dress is vividly depicted in ancient myths. One story tells of an interaction in the Tang Dynasty (618 to 907) between an Arabian trader and an official dressed in gauzy robes. Through five layers of clothes, the merchant was able to detect a mole on the official’s chest.
If imagining is too hard, check out some of these summer clothes from ancient China.
SHA GOWN
A sha (plain gauze) gown was unearthed from Han Tomb number one at Mawangdui in Changsha, Hunan province, in 1972. It is the earliest, most well-preserved, most exquisite and thinnest dress in the world. The plain gown, “thin as a cicada wing” and “light as smoke”, weighs 49 grammes (g). It is only 25g with the sleeve openings and collar removed and can be folded into a matchbox. This piece represents the highest level of early Han in silk reeling and fabric manufacture.
LUO ROBE
Well-suited for the humid southern regions of China, luo (gauze) has larger holes in the fabric compared with sha, making it more lightweight and breathable.
From the Han Dynasty (206 BC to AD 220) to the Tang (618 to 907) and Song (960 to 1279) Dynasties, luo was predominantly used for the clothing of the nobility, and only officials of fifth rank or higher were permitted to wear garments made of the material.
GE CLOTHES
Silk fabrics such as sha and luo were highly valued and deemed luxurious for common people. However, resourceful individuals discovered a method to utilise plant fibers for clothing production, significantly reducing the cost of summer garments.
Ge, also known as kudzu or Chinese arrowroot, represents the earliest utilisation of natural fiber as fabric in China.
Once the lunar month of June arrived, people would typically transition to ge clothing.
MA CLOTHES
Among the fabrics used for summer clothing in ancient times, ge cloth was known for its quality and affordability.
However, fabric made from the herbaceous plant “ma” offered an even better combination of quality and cost-effectiveness.
Hemp, flax, ramie and jute are collectively called “ma”, and the word is also used to refer to these materials when the exact species is unknown.
Since the Han Dynasty, ma has been cultivated on a large scale, making the cloth inexpensive.
The advancement of textile technology allowed ma cloth to be woven finely. It is breathable and easy to dye, making it a commonly used fabric for summer clothing.
BAMBOO CLOTHES
Throughout ancient times, bamboo products were favored as effective tools for staying cool during the summer.
Bamboo mats and bamboo pillows provided reliable comfort.
People also used small bamboo tubes to create a net-like garment, serving as a means to prevent sweat.
The history of bamboo garments can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty, when China saw the emergence of bamboo gauze, a fabric woven from slender bamboo strips.
In the later period of the Qing Dynasty, bamboo garments became widely popular and were even offered as tributes for the royal family.
LIANGDANG
A classic style of costume emerged during the Southern and Northern Dynasties (420 to 581). Liangdang consists of front and back pieces, later called the vest.
It was convenient for people who work outdoors for long periods.
Although the living standards of ancient times cannot be compared to the modern era, the Chinese people actively explored ways to make their summers more comfortable and convenient.
