AP – Since the death of Virgil Abloh in 2021, the Louis Vuitton men’s studio has taken over the brand’s creative control.
Yet the recent set – a vintage childhood home recreated inside the Louvre’s oldest courtyard – was in continuity with Abloh’s coming-of-age styles that have defined his Vuitton tenure from 2018-2021.
This season, the youthful studio team and guest designer Colm Dillane channelled growing up “as members of the first generation raised on super-connectivity”. References to the digital age thus abounded in the creative and tailoring-heavy display – which was most successful when it kept it simple.
Patterns evoked encrypted computer coding, while handwritten notes – which are deemed obsolete in today’s world – were upcycled to produce a surreal white suit and top hat look whose façade was constructed entirely of the note paper.
The collection at times felt reliant on gimmicks, such as pixelated apples on an otherwise beautiful round-shouldered wool coat.
The best looks were minimalist, such as a light grey suit jacket that sported one large childlike button and a fabulous, tapered V-shape owing to masterful construction with interlocking layers of fabric.
