AP – Beans and tortillas are a classic pairing served in numerous configurations, usually with the beans served in or on the tortilla. But for Oaxacan enfrijoladas, lightly fried tortillas are dipped into and completely coated by a black bean puree.
For the enfrijoladas recipe in our book Cook What You Have, which draws on pantry staples to assemble easy, weeknight meals, we use canned beans for ease. We cook the beans down with an aromatic mix of onion, garlic and cumin, then blend everything until smooth and creamy. A standard blender works fine, but if you own an immersion blender, you can puree the beans directly in the pan.
Briefly frying the tortillas until they start to puff and brown but don’t quite crisp keeps them pliable enough to dip, but also ensures they don’t turn to mush when sauced. Garnishes make this simple vegetarian dish a meal and add contrasting colour, texture and flavour.
We think chopped onion, crumbled cotija cheese and cilantro are essential, but you can add sliced avocado and Mexican crema for a little richness, or a squeeze of fresh lime juice to brighten.
BLACK BEAN ENFRIJOLADAS
Ingredients
– Two tablespoons plus one-third cup grapeseed or other neutral oil, divided
– One large white onion, three-quarter thinly sliced, a quarter finely chopped, reserved separately
– Two medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
– One to two teaspoons chili powder
– Two teaspoons ground cumin OR a quarter teaspoon ground allspice OR both
– 15.5-ounce can black beans, rinsed and drained
– Kosher salt and ground black pepper
– Eight six-inch corn tortillas
– Three ounces cheddar OR Monterey jack cheese, shredded (three-quarter cup) OR cotija cheese, finely crumbled (about half cup)
– Half cup lightly packed fresh cilantro, chopped
Directions
In a large saucepan over medium-high, heat two tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, five to six minutes. Add the garlic, chili powder and cumin; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add the beans, two cups water and half teaspoon each salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits, then cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the water is just below the level of the beans, 10 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a 12-inch skillet over medium, heat the remaining one-third cup oil until just beginning to shimmer. Slip two tortillas into the oil and cook just until they begin to puff and brown, 20 to 30 seconds, flipping the tortillas with a spatula halfway through; do not allow the tortillas to crisp.
Transfer to a baking sheet and cover with foil. Warm the remaining tortillas in the same way, reducing the heat if the oil begins to smoke; it’s fine to overlap the tortillas on the baking sheet. When the beans are done, remove the pan from the heat and cool for about 10 minutes.
Using a blender and working in two batches to avoid overfilling the jar, puree the bean mixture until smooth, 15 to 20 seconds. Return the puree to the pan. (Alternatively, if you own an immersion blender, puree the mixture directly in the pan.)
Cook uncovered over low, stirring occasionally, until heated through, three to five minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. – Christopher Kimball
