The spice of Aidilfitri

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Hari Raya Aidilfitri is a season of celebration, where Muslims around the world come together to mark the end of Ramadhan, reflecting on another year of spiritual growth and showing appreciation for loved ones, both present and departed. It is a time of forgiveness and goodwill.

With celebration comes a dash of indulgence, particularly in Brunei, where food takes centre stage.

During Raya, a variety of snacks and delicacies are enjoyed, ranging from the light sweetness of cookies and biscuits to the rich flavours of the Bruneian favourite, kek tapak kuda.

The array of delights that emerge during Raya will surely satisfy any palate and is often an aspect that many residents look forward to during this season of kinship. The food not only serves as a good icebreaker but also evokes a sense of nostalgia, hearkening back to past Rayas and childhoods.

Throughout the Sultanate, an array of bazaars and expos are set up to offer such delicacies and other Raya essentials to the public, including the Jualan Kuih Muih Raya Belia 2024, hosted at the Youth Centre in the capital.

Various types of cookies, biscuits and cakes at the bazaar. PHOTOS: ROKIAH MAHMUD

The event is an annual programme aimed at providing opportunities and a platform for youth to delve into entrepreneurship, enhance their business skills, and contribute to the country’s economic growth by generating income.

It also serves as a platform for vendors to promote local products, engage in business networking, and introduce their homemade cakes, pastries, and biscuits, providing convenience for the public, especially those seeking a variety of foods but lacking the time to prepare their own.

In an interview with one of the participating vendors, Nor Rizah binti Haji Yunos, a member of the Women’s Association, shared that the association has been participating in the programme annually for more than five decades.

This year, according to Nor Rizah, 35 members from the association participated in the event. She noted that the event has become a staple in the Sultanate, especially leading up to Raya, making it a popular destination among customers even without significant promotional efforts or marketing.

“Most of our customers tend to seek the old-school favourites (traditional Malay snacks associated with Raya) such as kuih makmor, kuih bangkit sagu, agar-agar kering, maruku, epok-epok, buah kana biscuits, and siput manja biscuits.”

or Rizah binti Haji Yunos with other vendors. PHOTO: ROKIAH MAHMUD

While there is a strong demand for traditional delicacies during Raya, Siti Hamdiah binti Haji Tuah, a vendor from Kampong Panchor Mengkubau participating in the event for the second year, expressed concern about the rising cost of ingredients.

However, she chose not to increase the prices of her products. She explained that while she is running a business, she believes in conducting it with a charitable spirit.

Therefore, she decided to maintain her prices in the hope of providing relief to those facing financial difficulties during this festive season. Siti Hamdiah specialises in making serunding, also known as chicken floss, a recipe passed down by her mother to her and her siblings.

“Fortunately, nowadays we have advanced equipment that we can rely on. Previously, making serunding would take three to four days. However, with modern machinery, the entire process, including tendering, tearing, marinating, and drying the beef using pressure cookers, ovens, and air fryers, has become more efficient.

Siti Hamdiah binti Haji Tuah in front of her stall. PHOTO: ROKIAH MAHMUD

“It can now be completed within one day and packed the next day for sale.” Meanwhile, the home-based vendor Souq De’ Hakeem, known for their popia seaweed, explained that due to the increased cost of raw ingredients, they had no choice but to raise their prices to maintain profitability.

To stay ahead of the curve, the founder emphasised the crucial role in promoting their products, especially since many of their customers are regular buyers. As their products are seasonal, they experience an influx of orders during festive periods like this.

Popia seaweed

In the midst of our bustling modern lives and the challenges posed by a changing economy, there’s something truly special about the traditional cake and snack makers who keep our favourite treats alive. Despite the rising prices of ingredients, these vendors work tirelessly to ensure that these snacks are not just a memory, but a cherished reality for us, especially during Raya and other festive occasions. 

Their dedication helps us connect with our past, allowing us to relive cherished memories of childhood and celebrations with loved ones. – ROKIAH MAHMUD