For decades, the Jualan Kuih Raya Belia at the Youth Centre in the capital has been a cherished tradition in the weeks leading up to Hari Raya Aidilfitri.
A bustling marketplace of festive delights, it has become the go-to hub for those seeking handmade, classic, and traditional Bruneian kuihs, biscuits, and cakes – particularly for those waiting for their mid-week or month-end salary to indulge in these festive treats.
For those who forget to place an order for Hari Raya kuihs before the start of Ramadhan, or for those without a regular kuih baker they rely on each year, the event serves as a reliable solution and all-in-all, it has become the go-to destination for all, ensuring no one misses out on the sweet joys of the season.
Though today the event is marketed as a youth-centric initiative, its origins stretch back at least four decades. In the 1980s, the Women’s Institute of Brunei Darussalam (WI) first pioneered this initiative, transforming the Youth Centre’s modest kitchen into a vibrant space where homemade Bruneian delicacies were crafted and sold.
It was a humble yet spirited beginning, setting the foundation for what has now become an eagerly anticipated annual event.
The manager of WI’s Brunei-Muara chapter Hajah Salmah binti Haji Tengah, has witnessed this tradition evolve firsthand. As a second-generation participant in the event, she fondly recalled its early days, when the scent of freshly baked kuih filled the air of the small kitchen.
“The event was started by 10 members of the WI,” reminisced Hajah Salmah who is in her 60s.
“Back then, we prepared the kuih and biscuits right in the kitchen of the centre and sold them on the spot. Can you imagine how hot it was? There was a hall, but we weren’t allowed to use it back then.”
As the years passed, the event’s popularity grew, drawing more members eager to take part in this seasonal tradition. With increasing demand for traditional Bruneian treats, the WI sought permission to expand beyond the confines of the kitchen. “Because of its popularity, more members wanted to join,” Hajah Salmah explained.
“We started making the kuih from home, and eventually, we were granted permission to set up by the swimming pool area. We remained there for many years before finally moving into the hall, where we sell today.”
At the heart of the event lies a deep sense of authenticity. Every delicacy on display is lovingly handmade and homemade, showcasing the dedication of the women who have upheld this cherished tradition for generations.
“Our kuih and biscuits are classic, and Alhamdulillah, people know and trust us. Every year, we sell out completely,” said Hajah Salmah. Yet, beyond its nostalgic charm, the event is quietly evolving. In recent years, a new generation of bakers has begun to take its place alongside seasoned hands.
She noted that as the older generation ages, welcoming younger participants is essential to ensuring the tradition continues, whether through home-baking or entrepreneurship.
A TRUSTED NAME
The success of the event is reflected in its impressive sales figures.
According to the association’s treasurer, daily earnings can start at BND100 and steadily rise to BND1,000, BND2,000, or even BND3,000 as the payday rush approaches.
Loyal customers return year after year, with some spending between BND500 and BND800 per visit – a testament to the trust placed in these handmade delicacies. For Hajah Salmah, the event carries deep personal significance.
Her sister was among its pioneers and was provided with an oven – an invaluable addition at the time, as owning one was beyond their means.
After school, Hajah Salmah would help with the baking, a routine that became a formative part of her life. It was a game-changer she recalled, explaining that without the oven, their efforts would have been far more limited.
“When I came home from school, I would help her. Kuih samprit, for example, has a filling, and my job was to do that.”
Fortunately, when the Hari Raya event began, WI bakers were granted access to the Youth Centre’s kitchen, allowing them to continue their work.
Reflecting on the event’s history, she noted that out of the 10 original women who started it, seven have since passed, now in their 80s.
EVOLVING TRADITIONS
Despite the growing modernisation of the food industry, traditional kuih and biscuits remain in demand.
Customers still flock to the sale for staples like kuih mor, kuih samprit, and kuih murukku.
“No matter how modern things become, people will always come back for these traditional treats,” Hajah Salmah said.
However, innovation has also played a role in keeping up with changing tastes.
“Some of our traditional kuih have been given a modern twist,” she explained. “Kuih samprit, for example, now comes with Nutella or Nestum. It’s still the original recipe, just adapted slightly to attract customers.”
While older customers remain loyal to tradition, younger consumers tend to prefer online shopping, sometimes without truly knowing the taste of these homemade treats.
Even so, the WI has built a solid customer base that spans generations.
One concern for the association is the gradual decline of traditional kuih-making.
With modern cakes and snacks being easier to prepare, fewer people are learning the skills needed to make time-consuming delicacies. “There’s a risk these recipes could disappear,” Hajah Salmah acknowledged.
“The ones making them today are mostly from the older generations. Younger bakers might sell online, but many do not actually know the full process of making traditional kuih.” To counter this, she ensured that her own daughters learn the craft, even if they do not turn it into a business.
“At the very least, they will know how to make these kuih and pass the knowledge down,” she said. – Wardi Wasil
