AFP/AP – Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno’s second runway collection continued to shift and clarify Gucci codes, with several looks purposefully mirroring his womenswear debut: a deep, blood red leather jacket exuded passion, while a zipped navy jacket with jeans or a sheer ribbed sweater in camel spoke to the brand’s urban cool. The collection was titled ‘Ancora’, Italian for still, or again.
De Sarno tended toward low-key with the silhouette and the logo: double-breasted jackets were stripped of visible closures, trenches were long and streaming, plain pea coats returned to the brand’s utilitarian heritage.
The logo was sparing: Gucci was emblazoned in subtle raised letters on leather bags, the double-G logo appeared as repeating patterns on slim suits and the Gucci stripe inside coat slits. For the masses in search of a cult item: the double-G belt abides.
With a versatile sporty-to-tailored-to-dance floor silhouette, the collection was blinged up with kaleidoscopic crystal-covered tanks or trousers, or shimmery shaggy lurex coats that mix light and motion.
Zippers are deliberately deployed to catch the light against a dark palate. Crystal sequins lit up the collars of ribbed knit-wear. Adornments are purposeful, nothing overwhelming about them.
