For Bruneians, cross-border trips are a way of life. From the closest destinations of Limbang and Miri in Sarawak to the bustling streets of Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, exploring our neighbouring regions is a cherished pastime.
Yet, there are hidden gems along the way that deserve their moment in the sun. One such destination is Sipitang, a charming town in Sabah, Malaysia, that you will come across on your way to Kota Kinabalu.
Though there are many towns between the Sultanate and the capital of Sabah, from Lawas and Beaufort to Papar; Sipitang however, with its rural splendour overlooking the South China Sea, holds a special place in the hearts of many Bruneians.
As Borneons, we share so much with our neighbouring countries, including lineage. Such is my connection with Sipitang, allowing me to witness its development over the years.
After a hiatus from visiting the town due to the pandemic, Eid this year felt like the perfect moment for a return.
Though it was a mere weekend trip, filled with open houses and a brisk morning stroll along the town’s lively esplanade, it was enough to remind me why Sipitang should be a stop on any Kota Kinabalu road trip.
A TASTE OF HOME
The fastest way to a Bruneian’s heart is through their stomach, and Sipitang, with its close cultural ties to the Sultanate, is a haven for Malay dishes. Many of these dishes are familiar, while others hearken back to the times of our grandparents.
With about three houses on the itinerary, there were plenty of foods served. One dish that seemed to be in season and was present at each open house was a delicacy I had not had the fortune of tasting since my grandparents were still here.
It was deer soup (sup payau), a delicacy shared by both nations, especially among rural communities. The soup can be eaten with rice or used as the broth for soto, a regional noodle dish that most commonly features chicken or beef soup.
I didn’t know what to expect, as my memories of bush meat were spotty at best. My Dusun grandparents typically prepared it with turmeric, but the substantial piece of meat on the bone served to me was truly a hearty meal. It left me wonderfully satisfied, even at the first house.
Alongside this was an ulam (traditional salads made from fresh leaves and herbs, eaten raw) of young cashew leaves, dipped in a sambal (a traditional sauce or condiment typically made from shrimp paste).
These dishes, for me personally, were among the few that truly stood out as each dish bought flavours both familiar and long forgotten.
A SEASIDE STROLL
One of the best features of Sipitang, nestled in the heart of town, is its esplanade, which has transformed into a prime location for vibrant festivals and community gatherings.
The Sipitang Esplanade offers a scenic view to die for, with an endless horizon that makes golden hours supremely breath-taking. It’s the town’s watering hole, a bustling hub where weekends see the waterfront lined with tents of vendors selling their wares.
And, of course, no visit to Sipitang is complete without experiencing its famous waterfront eateries. From end to end, the stalls here sell an array of grilled items, with many boasting the best satay in town.
Indeed, choosing the best satay stall can be a delightful challenge, as most offer succulent, flavourfully marinated skewers grilled to perfection. The best approach is to try them all.
Additionally, some stalls offer kelupis, a delicacy made from glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaves. However, kelupis often sells out quickly, a testament to its quality and the deep-rooted tradition of its preparation.
This is hardly surprising given the considerable Kedayan population in Sipitang, whose expertise in making kelupis dates back generations. The combination of these dishes provides a comforting touch for Bruneian visitors, evoking a sense of home.
A local Sipitang resident noted that a day rarely passes without meeting someone from Brunei, highlighting the intertwined cultures of the two communities.
The dialect spoken in Sipitang is also remarkably similar to that of Brunei, allowing for seamless communication. This similarity is especially comforting for Kedayan speakers, who will find themselves feeling entirely at home.
All of this amidst the backdrop of the endless blue sea; Sipitang definitely offers comfort in gentle waves.
So, the next time you’re planning your journey to Kota Kinabalu, consider taking a detour to explore the quiet charm of Sipitang.
Whether you’re enjoying the finest satay by the waterfront, wandering along the picturesque esplanade, or embracing the local culture, Sipitang provides a serene retreat that celebrates our shared Borneon bonds. – Wardi Wasil
