AP – Giorgio Armani’s recent collection is playful.
Silk bolero jackets opened the display that riffed on the 1980s, with lozenges appearing throughout – first as a 3D relief on jackets and, most dramatically, later on a blown-up courtly ruff.
Fastidious embroideries in every colour under the sun dripped down sometimes slinky A-line and body-caressing column silhouettes.
But too many styles and shapes came together in this exhaustive collection – with its big jewelled flower appliques, dazzling sequin-encrusted jackets and round collar tops with geometric shapes – and that made the show hard to pin down as a whole.
Sometimes garments would have benefitted without Armani’s insistence on structure – such as one paneled gown that creased at the skirt – but there was so much dazzle and razzmatazz that most of it is unnoticeable.