AFP/AP/VOGUE – Amidst the gloom of a carpark on a dreary January night during a French general strike, we ascended to discover a lively Dries Van Noten rave unfolding.
Belgian designers seem perpetually drawn to youth sub-cultures, as evidenced by Raf Simons’s previous warehouse rave for his label. However, with Van Noten, there’s no fear of venturing into rebellious teenage angst. He remains a romantic at heart, cherishing flowers, gardening, and showcasing his sharp tailoring skills.
In this collection, both sides of his creative coin were evident. The double-breasted brown English wool coat boasted subtly exaggerated shoulders and a cinched waist reminiscent of classic Hollywood movie stars.
Besides the things he did with tailoring, the rest of the collection was inspired by a two connected themes. “The freedom and self-expression of rave culture from the ’90s, combined with the quite surreal beauty of nature,” as he put it.
