For many, the arrival of a new year signals a time for fresh experiences and new beginnings. However, tucked away in the heart of Tutong District, a humble farmstay offers a different approach – one that celebrates Brunei Darussalam’s past by revisiting its culinary roots, all while embracing the new year.
The spotlight for this year’s first heritage cuisine is ambuyat, Brunei’s national dish, served with a rural twist.
Ambuyat, traces its origins to the Japanese occupation of Brunei between 1941 and 1945. While it has long been a staple among Borneo’s indigenous communities, in Brunei, its history speaks of the resourcefulness of the people during a time of scarcity.
Made from the inner trunk of the sago palm, ambuyat is created by mixing sago starch with hot water, yielding a sticky, glue-like delicacy.
During World War II, with essential food supplies scarce under Japanese control, Bruneians turned to the abundant sago palms, ensuring their survival. In doing so, they embedded ambuyat into the nation’s identity as a symbol of resilience and resourcefulness.
Today, many eateries specialise in this national dish, each offering a unique take through a range of condiments and side dishes that complement the ambuyat.
Common accompaniments include fried or grilled meats (daging lalap), fried fish, stir-fried water spinach, and more.
The true essence of ambuyat lies in its communal nature, making it best enjoyed in the company of others. Its versatility, coupled with the variety of side dishes, means there’s a version to suit every palate.
With this in mind, Eco Ponies Garden, a farmstay dedicated to heritage cuisine, is returning ambuyat to its rural origins. The emphasis is on crafting traditional accompaniments that honour the indigenous roots of the dish.
This community-based farmstay celebrates the abundant natural resources of the jungle and rivers, offering visitors an immersive experience that harkens back to a time when foraging and self-sufficiency were not only valued but essential for survival.
The following traditional side dishes capture the essence of rural flavours, and alongside the ambuyat, it’s just a small taste of the sultanate’s culinary heritage.
ULAM KULIMPAPA WITH SARDINE
Ulam refers to a traditional Malaysian or Indonesian salad made with raw or blanched herbs and vegetables.
Start by washing and chopping the kulimpapa leaves into bite-sized pieces. In a bowl, combine the chopped leaves with thinly sliced onion and chopped chilli, if you like a bit of heat. Add a can of drained sardines and gently mix everything together. Season with lime juice and salt to taste, and toss to ensure all the ingredients are well coated.
KERABU PAKIS (FERN SALAD)
Begin by blanching the pakis (fern) in boiling water for a few minutes until tender, but still bright green. Drain the water and set the fern aside.
In a dry pan, toast grated coconut until golden-brown, being careful not to burn it. Once toasted, combine the coconut with the blanched pakis, and season with salt and lime juice to taste. Toss the ingredients together to mix well, and serve chilled as a refreshing, tangy side dish.
TURMERIC FLOWER SALAD
Gently wash them to remove any dirt or impurities, and then remove the petals, cutting them into smaller pieces.
You will need about one cup of fresh turmeric flowers. Then combine the turmeric flowers with thinly sliced red onion, along with shrimp paste. If you like a bit of heat, add one-two sliced red chilies to the mix. Then garnish the dish with dried shrimp.
BANANA FLOWER IN COCONUT MILK
To make this dish, start by boiling the sliced banana flower in water for 10-15 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside. In a pan, heat oil over medium heat and sauté chopped garlic and onion until golden.
Add the boiled banana flower and stir well. Pour in coconut milk, simmer for about five minutes to let the flavours combine, and season with salt to taste. Once the banana flower is tender and infused with the coconut milk, serve warm.
PRAWNS WITH SOUR EGGPLANT
Start by cleaning and deveining the prawns. Slice the sour eggplant thinly, and set aside. In a pan, heat some oil and sauté finely chopped shallots and shrimp paste until fragrant. Add one-two bird’s eye chilies, sliced, if you want to add heat and continue sautéing until the mixture becomes aromatic.
Once the shallots and shrimp paste have cooked down, add the prawns and sliced eggplant to the pan. Stir to coat evenly with the mixture. Then, cover the pan and simmer the dish for about 10-15 minutes, or until the prawns are cooked through and the eggplant becomes tender. Adjust seasoning with salt if necessary and serve hot for a flavourful, tangy seafood dish.
STIR-FRIED SAYUR BUNGAR
Sayur bungar, a river plant with split leaves and thorny stalks, should be handled with care. It’s advisable to wear gloves when preparing it, as the plant’s latex can be an irritant. To prepare, boil the leaves thoroughly to remove the latex, ensuring they are fully cooked. Once boiled and drained, sauté chopped onion, garlic, and dried shrimp in a pan. Add the cooked vegetable leaves to the pan and stir well, then remove from heat once the dish is ready. – Wardi Wasil
