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More than meets the eye

In the time-worn town of Tutong District, there lies an iconic scene that while familiar for Bruneians, is frequently glossed over and confined only to its picturesque charm.

As the second-longest river in Brunei, the Tutong River embodies the heartbeat of one of the Sultanate’s less urbanised districts.

This timeless body of water, recognised mostly by the stark white sign proudly standing on its banks opposite the district’s urban centre, holds more than meets the eye.

It conceals a treasure trove of scenes and secrets echoing not only the nation’s rich biodiversity but also resurrecting forgotten folklore.

In the pursuit of uncovering the hidden mysteries within the murky depths of the Tutong River, an unconventional pair takes the lead: a homegrown youth, fuelled by a fervour for volunteering, and a fisherman carving out a livelihood along the river’s banks.

Twenty-eight-year-old Haji Abdul Mateen Bolikini bin Haji Ahmad met 45-year-old fisherman Normi Davey – also known as Bobby – in 2019, just a year after his graduation from Universiti Brunei Darussalam (UBD) during a community-organised charity drive, where Normi was among the recipients and Haji Abdul Mateen was a volunteer who distributed the donations.

Travellers during a tour of the Tutong River. PHOTO: HAJI ABDUL MATEEN
An iconic signage by the Tutong River. PHOTO: HAJI ABDUL MATEEN
Tambang offers a collection of distinctive moments, such as encountering wild buffaloes. PHOTO: HAJI ABDUL MATEEN

However, this event differed from the usual charity drives as it required traversing the waterways to reach Normi’s residence, situated along the banks of the Tutong River.

In a departure from the conventional, Haji Abdul Mateen, along with fellow community members, embarked on a boat journey to deliver the contributions directly to Normi’s house.

“After the handover, Bobby (Normi Davey), who is a full-time fisherman brought us along on a tour of the Tutong River and his knowledge of the locations within the waterways was very insightful, revealing aspects of the river that were previously unseen,” Haji Abdul Mateen shared in an interview.

By 2021, the unlikely duo helm Tambang, a homegrown ecotourism venture dedicated to unravelling the captivating mystique of the Tutong River to Bruneians and other travellers.

BRIDGING HEADWATERS

Fresh out of university in 2018, Haji Abdul Mateen delved into the job market, threading his days with a mix of volunteer work and engagement in youth entrepreneurial programmes.

A standout among these experiences was his participation in Darussalam Enterprise’s start-up weekend in the same year, which set the stage for the events leading up to his meeting with Bobby a year later.

The origins of Tambang occurred during this period. It was originally conceived as a mobile application linking tourists with water taxi drivers from the capital’s Kampong Ayer, however the initiative failed to gain traction.

Undeterred, Haji Abdul Mateen continued his commitment to volunteerism and skills development until 2021, where he seized an opportunity to participate in a district office programme which aimed to foster youth entrepreneurship in the community.

Haji Abdul Mateen represented Kampong Panchor Papan and was one among a handful of hopefuls from other villages. The stakes were high, with the promise of seed money for the most promising entrepreneur – a turning point in the evolution of Tambang.

“Bobby, who was a full-time fisherman and aid recipient, became a key focus for us. Given the seasonal nature of fishing, we brainstormed ways to support him and maximise the utilisation of his boat.”

From a simple app for hailing water taxi drivers in the capital, Tambang underwent an evolution into an ecotourism platform, a metamorphosis that not only sought to spotlight an undiscovered ecotourism gem but also aimed to create income opportunities for local community members, like Bobby.

“From the Tutong Waterfront to Kampong Tanjong Maya, it took us a week to meticulously map out all the routes in the Tutong River through a process of trial and error. We explored each route in search of intriguing elements and as time passed, our efforts led to the discovery of multiple points of interest.”

FAUNA AND FOLKLORES

With over 800 rides logged earlier this year, Haji Abdul Mateen acknowledged that Tambang’s surge was largely propelled by the pandemic, as people sought local adventures due to travel restrictions.

Yet today, Tambang still proudly boasts a repertoire of experiences exclusive to this charming river tour. Bobby and Haji Abdul Mateen, work in perfect synergy – Bobby’s rich knowledge of the river complemented by Haji Abdul Mateen’s research prowess, especially when delving into the captivating realm of local folklore.

From encountering elusive clouded leopards and vibrant kingfishers to marvelling at majestic wild buffaloes, the Tambang journey provides a series of unique moments, including the exploration of local Tutong legends.

According to Haji Abdul Mateen, along the waterways of the Tutong River, there are two islands heavily tied to local myths and folklore: Pulau Bakuku and Pulau Selawat.

Pulau Bakuku’s narrative, he shared, revolves around a remarkable find – an enormous claw, possibly a fossil, earning its name from this intriguing discovery. Despite its modest size, however, the island has stories of people getting lost – a paradoxical phenomenon given its accessibility during low tide and restriction during high tide.

Pulau Selawat, the larger island of the two, also has a unique history, one steeped in the supernatural. The youth revealed that the island used to be a site for agriculture dating back to the Japanese occupation in Brunei, suggested by the presence of coconut trees.

“Situated between the sea and the river, there are stories of whirlpools forming around the island. Locals attribute the phenomenon to the supernatural, and back in the day, as locals pass by, they offer prayers, or selawat, accompanied by ritualistic offerings during their fishing ventures.”

As a Tutong native residing a mere five-minute drive from town and in proximity to the river, Haji Abdul Mateen confessed that he, too, was oblivious to these fascinating details before embarking on this venture – an unfortunate reality shared by many other young Bruneians.

“We, as Bruneians, often seek adventure beyond our borders, unaware that there are plenty waiting right in front of us. This was one of the reasons for Tambang, as a reminder of the unexplored beauty that we have.

“Insya Allah, looking ahead, we envision expanding our offerings, ensuring the capacity for more people and enhanced safety, with a commitment to environmental friendliness,” he said. – Wardi Wasil

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