ANN/THE STAR – Drawing on his grandfather’s beloved 90-year-old fish ball recipe, Phaung Kong Yeow masterfully prepares five varieties of traditional yong tau foo – a dish deeply cherished within Penang’s bustling food culture.
Nestled at the foot of Penang Hill along Jalan Pokok Ceri, his family-operated business has cultivated a devoted customer base, particularly among Air Itam residents and visitors from farther afield.
Now 52, Phaung took the reins of the business in 1998, succeeding his father, who had inherited it from Phaung’s grandfather, originally from Dabu County in Meizhou, Guangdong, China.
“It’s an honour to continue my family’s tradition. Every day brings hard work and dedication, but the joy of serving customers our authentic flavours makes it all worthwhile,” he said.
Alongside him in the daily operations is his wife, Khoo Wei Wen, 45, as well as two supportive neighbours who help prepare the yong tau foo for sale. Although his two daughters and a son, aged 21, 23, and 24, have pursued different career paths, Phaung has ensured that the family’s culinary heritage is preserved for future generations.
“My daughters learnt the recipe by helping at the stall since they were young, carefully observing each step and mastering the techniques passed down through generations,” Phaung said.
“I have also documented everything in detail, from the ingredients and cooking methods to the little secrets that make our dishes unique, so they will always have a reference if they choose to return to the business.”
But, he added, “this is more than just a business. It’s our family’s legacy – a heritage built on hard work, love, and tradition.”
The secret of the recipe, possibly more than a century old, lies in its key ingredients: eel meat, tapioca flour and some seasoning. Phaung’s grandfather was already making the dish in China before emigrating to Malaysia.
“Each day, I use about 100kg of eel and I am able to make 2,200 pieces of yong tau foo,” he said. “These are also sold to market traders across the island, and I keep some to sell myself.”
