BANGKOK (ANN/THE NATION) – The kebaya, a traditional women’s garment celebrated for its intricate design and cultural significance, is set to be recognised as an intangible cultural heritage item by UNESCO during the upcoming session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage (IGC) in Asunción, Paraguay. The submission is a joint effort by Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand under the title “Kebaya: Knowledge, Skills, Tradition, and Practices.”
Cultural significance of the kebaya
The kebaya symbolises a shared history and rich cultural heritage among the five nations. It is renowned for its elegance and has long served as a bridge between diverse communities, promoting peace and harmony. In Thailand, the kebaya has similar counterparts in the southern regions, reflecting cultural ties with its neighbouring countries.
Origins and evolution
The kebaya originated in Southeast Asia during the 15th century, particularly in regions such as Java, where it was initially worn by royalty and aristocrats. The garment evolved into a tailored blouse over a kemban torso wrap, transitioning to a more modest style influenced by the spread of Islam. By the 17th century, variations of the kebaya became accessible to commoners, incorporating safety pins or peniti for practicality.
The kebaya spread across Southeast Asia, adapting to local customs and materials through trade and diplomatic relationships. This cultural exchange enriched its designs, creating distinct variations in regions such as Bali, Sulawesi, Malacca, Sulu, and Mindanao. Today, the kebaya continues to thrive as a cherished element of cultural identity and celebration.
Varieties of kebaya
The kebaya has developed numerous styles, each reflecting the unique cultural identities of its regions:
Kebaya Jawa (Javanese Kebaya): Known for its V-neck cut and simplicity, often made from semi-transparent fabrics like brocade, silk, or velvet.
Kebaya Nyonya: A colourful, tight-fitting blouse adorned with intricate embroidery, popular among the Chinese Peranakan community, paired with batik sarongs and accessories such as keronsang brooches.
Kebaya Kartini: A thick-fabric style from 19th-century Java, featuring a V-neck and a distinctive fold at the front.
Kebaya Panjang (Kebaya Labuh): A long, loose-fitting tunic typically worn over batik sarongs.
Kebaya Sunda: Originating from West Java, it features U-shaped necklines and floral embroidery.
Kebaya Bali: Similar to the Javanese style but includes a decorative waist belt.
Kebaya Kutu Baru: Distinguished by an additional fabric panel (bef) connecting the chest and belly area.
Modern adaptations
Despite its historical roots, the kebaya remains relevant in contemporary fashion. In Thailand, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, it is often incorporated into modern wardrobes, paired with trousers or contemporary outfits. This blend of tradition and modernity highlights the kebaya’s timeless appeal, symbolising cultural preservation and unity.
UNESCO recognition
The recognition of the kebaya as an intangible cultural heritage underscores its significance as a symbol of shared identity and collaboration among the five nations. This acknowledgment celebrates its enduring legacy and ensures its traditions are preserved for future generations.
