AP/AFP – Gucci launched its post-Michele era with a palette-cleansing collection that carried whiffs of his influence, but which went in a strikingly new, and spare, direction.
Stripped of eccentricity, the collection returned Gucci to a set of basics with a rock ‘n’ roll vibe.
The core look included oversized jackets with papery tops worn with trailing trousers or long-johns leggings tucked into bright cowboy boots, accented with leg warmers. The colour palette was subdued, denim and khaki, grey and canary yellow, purple with ice blue.
There were still genderless references, but they were more glam rock than necessarily for the they/them demographic. A poet shirt had a deep V; T-shirts and mohair sweaters were sheer and long skirts appeared deconstructed from trousers, and were paired with striped rugby shirts.
Many of these looks would have fit in on Michele’s runway, but they surely would have been layered with ideas, memories and recollections expressed through quirky motifs and elaborate accents. The new collection, with its elongated, roomy silhouette and masculine edge, seen in oversized mechanic jumpsuit and motorcycle combos, will be an easier fit for many.
