Ghosts of the ocean

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Have you ever wondered what it’s like to commune with the ghosts of ships past while exploring the underwater wonders of Southeast Asia?

As an avid diver, I’ve found that there’s nothing quite like the thrill of a solo dive trip, especially when the destination is just a boat ride away from Kota Kinabalu’s Jesselton Point.

At the beginning of October this year, I embarked on an exhilarating adventure to Sepanggar Island, eager to explore an extraordinary dive site that boasts not one, not two, but three shipwrecks!

With perfect weather on my side – quite a rare occasion this time around, I also had the chance to explore the vibrant coral reefs at Tunku Abdul Rahman Park around the Gaya Island, making this diving escapade an unforgettable experience.

A DIVER’S DREAM

The unique Mari Mari Wreck site at Sepanggar Island features three sunken vessels, once illegal fishing boats, now transformed into dive sites and marine habitats for conservation and biodiversity.

The wrecks were just a swim away from the island – easily accessible from the shore, the site have transformed into a diver’s playground, catering to all skill levels.

As I plunged into the azure depths, excitement bubbled within me like a freshly popped bottle of fizz.

The moment I spotted the wrecks, I realised these vessels weren’t just sunken ships; they were the start of a bustling marine habitats.

ABOVE & BELOW: A view of one side of the Sepanggar Island in Sabah, Malaysia; and a section of the Mari Mari Wreck. PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
ABOVE & BELOW: The writer during a kayak session overseeing the island, the writer parasailing with the Sepanggar Island in the background; and a view of the Sepanggar Island jetty. PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
ABOVE & BELOW: The hairy frogfish; a scuba diver in the background swims past the Mari Mari Wreck; and the writer poses with the wreck. PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB
PHOTO: NADZIRAH MALEK-WEBB

Navigating through these underwater ruins felt like exploring an ancient city, with vibrant corals reclaiming their rightful space.

Each dive was a treasure hunt of sorts, leading me to schools of juvenile barracuda and cheeky pufferfish, who seemed to puff up just to show off.

The highlight, however, was spotting a hairy frogfish, blending in so perfectly it looked like a bizarre coral decoration.

And those slender banded pipefish? They glided gracefully like underwater ballet dancers, reminding me that every dive here is a new adventure waiting to unfold.

Sinking these vessels wasn’t just about creating dive sites; it was a masterstroke for marine biodiversity and coral growth.

Teaming up with GaiaOne, a non-profit devoted to marine conservation, local dive operators like Mari Mari ensure the ecological health of the surrounding reefs is firmly in check.

Before embarking on underwater adventures, divers receive thorough briefings on safety and environmental practices, fostering a respectful diving culture.

As I glided deeper into the wrecks, the sight of colourful corals reclaiming the vessels was nothing short of awe-inspiring.

With the sunlight filtering through, the underwater scene felt like a surreal painting, teeming with life that seemed almost too good to be true.

These wrecks, just recently submerged, were alive with colour and movement, serving as a powerful reminder of the ocean’s resilience.

To my delight, I encountered not only the usual suspects but also two feisty triggerfish, their territorial dance adding an extra thrill to my dive.

Observing them from a respectful distance, I felt a rush of adrenaline – it’s moments like these that make diving unforgettable.

A HEART FULL OF MEMORIES

Yet, there’s more to Sepanggar Island than the wrecks.

Its laid-back charm stands in stark contrast to the crowded beaches elsewhere.

I relished soaking up the sun, trying out various water sports, and soaking in the warm hospitality of the locals. One unforgettable sight was the hammock dangling enticingly over the coral reefs, inviting me to unwind and reflect amidst this serene paradise – truly a diver’s dream come true.

After an exhilarating morning of diving, I was ready to embrace more of Sepanggar Island’s offerings. Kayaking seemed like the perfect choice to soak in the breathtaking scenery.

As I paddled along the coastline, I stumbled upon hidden coves that felt like my own slice of paradise. The clear waters sparkled in the sun, while lush greenery framed the stunning backdrop, the chirping of birds from the trees enhanced the serene atmosphere.

I caught glimpses of small fish darting beneath my kayak, a reminder of the pulsating life lurking just below the surface.

For a thrill, I couldn’t resist trying parasailing – a bit of a change from my usual underwater escapades, darting through the skies had my heart racing, the rush of adrenaline mingling beautifully with the stunning vistas. My trip there also had me venturing around the island and snorkelling underwater.

The island’s food was a delight, too, and dining became an opportunity to connect with the welcoming locals, and I even joined a gathering of people from all walks of life, immersing myself in this unique islander culture.

What truly sets Sepanggar Island apart is its tranquility. With fewer tourists, I explored without the usual hustle and bustle, forging a genuine connection with the island and its people.

As I bid farewell, I was filled with gratitude for the unforgettable experiences I shared with this lively community and the island’s stunning beauty. – Nadzirah Malek-Webb