Wednesday, May 15, 2024
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From coast to coral: Exploring Sabah’s marine marvels

ANN/THE STAR – Amidst life’s diverse adventures and flavours, there beats a rhythm that captivates those open to the mysteries of the unknown. My own journey, a narrative woven with discovery and fascination, commenced in the unassuming town of Tawau in Sabah, often overlooked amidst its more illustrious counterparts. From Tawau, our expedition led us to Semporna, where I chanced upon the entrance to an undiscovered paradise. Here unfolded the magnificence of Malaysia’s submerged gem, Sipadan Island, and the captivating traditions of the Bajau Laut community.

This transition from the monotonous corporate life to a remarkable adventure was fuelled by a profound craving for the extraordinary. The untouched waters of Sipadan weren’t just a diver’s utopia but a reflection of Malaysia’s astonishing diversity – a place where clarity transcended the mere purity of water, becoming a state of mind that touched the soul.

Diving into the deep blue of Sipadan, I encountered a realm of majesty and challenges.

Known for its daunting wall dives, Sipadan stretched my abilities as a seasoned PADI rescue diver. The ocean floor, a mirage, plunged into the abyss. The vibrant coral walls, teeming with life, mirrored the dynamic hustle of a Malaysian marketplace.

Though I missed the sight of the famed whale sharks, hammerheads and mantas, the experience was still spellbinding. Schools of trevally, jacks, and barracuda swam in enchanting formations, creating a living mosaic of colours and shapes that mirrored Malaysia’s cultural richness. The coral gardens were a canvas for these marine creatures to narrate their iridescent stories, a reflection of the nation’s diverse cultural heritage.

Some Bajau Laut people are also known as the Palauh, and some earn their living by selling seafood from their boats. PHOTO: THE STAR
Only 250 permits are issued per day for divers and tourists to Sipadan Island. PHOTO: THE STAR

Every dive site unfolded as a distinct chapter in an underwater epic, written in coral and inhabited by a cast of fascinating characters. Barracuda Point was an underwater theatre where barracudas executed their famous vortex formation. The mysterious allure of Turtle Tomb, with its submerged caves sheltering the remains of ancient sea turtles, was unforgettable.

Sipadan’s status as a biodiversity hotspot was more than just a claim – it was a vivid reality. The island’s waters, a sanctuary for sea turtles like the hawksbill and green turtles, offered a rare window into their enchanting existence.

The journey extended beyond the aquatic marvels to Mabul Island, where you will find the enigmatic Bajau Laut people, who are also known as the “sea gypsies”. These nomadic seafarers have a history rooted in the Austronesian people. They speak Malay and Bajau, part of the Malayo-Polynesian language family, rich in nautical lexicon, reflecting their intrinsic bond with the sea.

Their incredible free-diving skills, plunging to impressive depths with rudimentary gear like wooden goggles and spears, epitomised their deep connection with the ocean, comparable to the fluidity of Malaysian martial arts.

Living modestly, the Bajau Laut adhere to sustainable fishing practices, embodying Malaysia’s dedication to environmental preservation.

My unexpected visit to Mabul evolved into a profound exploration of their lifestyle.

Engaging with them went beyond mere trading; it was a rich cultural interchange, showcasing their tenacity and adaptability in a world dictated by the sea. – Abbi Kanthasamy

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