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Durian season’s bounty

Master the art of creating tempoyak out of durian in your own kitchen.

Get ready to indulge in the irresistible allure of the season as the aroma of the king of fruits, the mighty durian, wafts through the air, beckoning you from every corner, be it bustling streets or vibrant markets.

During this season, for some, consuming durian is an absolute must. The rich, creamy, and thick flesh of this exotic fruit provides unparalleled satisfaction. However, not everyone finds it easy to enjoy, often struggling with the pungent durian smell.

ABOVE & BELOW: Ripe durian for tempoyak making. PHOTOS: ROKIAH MAHMUD

Some may choose to brave it, giving in to their cravings, while others steer clear, deterred by the fruit’s acquired taste.

On the flip side, as durian season sweeps in, it becomes a prime opportunity for culinary creatives to transform this exotic fruit into a myriad of fusion, modern and traditional recipes, seamlessly merging it into pastries, cakes, sweet desserts and savoury dishes among others.

During this period of durian abundance, many seize the chance to stock up on its luscious flesh, using it as a delectable filling or condiment for refreshing treats like ais batu campur (ABC) or ais kacang, especially on scorching, sun-soaked days.

Additionally, it plays a role as a traditional condiment or side dish, cherished not only in our local cuisine but also in various countries. In Brunei, tempoyak plays a versatile role in many culinary endeavours, finding its way into various recipes.

Crafting tempoyak can be a truly rewarding culinary experience, one that doesn’t demand expert skills but certainly requires meticulous attention to detail and a few handy tips and tricks to ensure a successful outcome.

Before we delve into this recipe, it’s worth noting that whenever durian season arrives, you can reliably spot it being sold at bustling markets like Tamu Kianggeh and Gadong Night Market, or even conveniently order it online.

However, my passion for cooking eventually led me to explore the intricacies of making this delectable dish myself.

Over the years, I’ve scoured the Internet for recipes and sought wisdom from the elders, eager to learn the secrets of crafting the perfect tempoyak just the way it should be.

It’s not that the store-bought varieties don’t suffice, but there’s a profound sense of satisfaction in creating it from scratch, in my own kitchen.

Selecting the perfect durian

When embarking on your tempoyak-making journey, the first crucial step is selecting the right durian.

Your choice of durian, at its peak of ripeness, holds the key to unlocking the exquisite flavours of your tempoyak. The quality and taste of the durian you choose will wield a substantial influence over the ultimate flavour profile of your fermented delicacy.

Therefore, it’s vital to exercise your senses and assess the durian’s attributes – is it creamy and sweet? Be discerning, as some durians may exhibit signs of staleness or possess undesirable texture and flesh.

Prior to cracking open that fragrant durian, meticulous preparation is essential. Ensure that all the utensils and equipment you’ll be using are perfectly clean. This includes not only the container but also the spoon that will handle this precious cargo.

The slightest contamination can wield an unfavourable impact on the fermentation process, potentially compromising its quality.

The art of tempoyak creation

When exploring the process of crafting this delicacy, the mainstay ingredient is salt. So recipes, however, take a creative twist by incorporating sugar.

This addition serves a dual purpose – enhancing the fermentation process while infusing a subtle sweetness into the texture and taste.

To start, extract the durian flesh from its seed, expertly blending it until it metamorphoses into a velvety paste.

Separating the ripe durian in a container. PHOTO: ROKIAH MAHMUD

Here, the critical note is that ripe durian is your only option; attempting to fashion tempoyak from unripe flesh is futile, as it won’t yield the desired texture.

You may wonder why we use salt – well, it’s a key element in the fermentation process as it plays the role of a water-drawing agent during this transformative journey.

Once the salt, and optionally sugar, are added, thorough mixing ensues, ensuring an even distribution of these components throughout the mixture.

Precision is key, with a recommended guideline of at least one tablespoon or two per cent of the durian flesh weight.

While there’s no precise scale, the golden rule remains: not too much, not too little.

An excess of salt leads to overwhelming saltiness, while skimping on it results in inadequate fermentation.

Storing your precious creation

Once you’ve achieved satisfaction with your mixture, it’s time to ensure its safekeeping.

This fundamental step involves storing the blend in an airtight container and sealing it meticulously. This not only prevents contamination but also serves as a barricade against unwanted microorganisms.

Once again, such precautions are imperative for the success of the fermentation process.

Place the container in a room with a consistent temperature, allowing the fermentation process to unfold naturally. Keep a watchful eye on your creation, regularly observing both its texture and taste.

Tempoyak stored in airtight seal jar. PHOTO: ROKIAH MAHMUD

This vigilance helps you pinpoint the precise moment when it reaches your desired level of tanginess.

In the event that the tempoyak draws excess water, necessitating container intervention, you can open the seal to remove the water and thwart potential bacterial growth.

Since fermentation is a patient process, you must exercise restraint and grant the tempoyak the time it needs to develop its unique flavours.

Once you’re content with the fermentation level and taste, it’s time to transfer your successful creation to the refrigerator.

This handy tip effectively slows down the fermentation process and keeps your tempoyak fresh and ready to enjoy.

Upon opening the airtight container, brace yourself for an onslaught of pungent odours that stem from the fermentation process. If you prefer smaller portions, you can transfer the tempoyak into another container at this stage.

Don’t be disheartened if your first attempt at making tempoyak doesn’t yield perfection.

Trial and error are par for the course, as it may take a few attempts to tailor the flavour precisely to your taste buds.

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can venture into experimenting with tempoyak in various recipes, creating unique dishes that feature this distinctive culinary delight.

Now, with your carefully crafted tempoyak, you can enjoy it in moderation, savouring its rich flavours in a variety of dishes, or transform it into sambal tempoyak, a delectable accompaniment that pairs wonderfully with our favourite local delicacy, ambuyat and more. – Rokiah Mahmud

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