Dive into clear streams, play with river shrimps, and bask in nature’s tranquil hues
The unique thing about being Bruneian is how nature and development live and coincide with one another.
In one vicinity, a vast housing scheme houses thousands, while merely a kilometre away lies Lugu Lake, a beloved body of water, with azure hues reminiscent of the sky.
Remarkably, the lake is not a natural occurrence but a man-made marvel resulting from land excavations during the construction of the RPN Kampong Lugu.
Yet, our exploration extends beyond the lake to the adjacent jungles, to a hiking trail dubbed the Lugu Loop. Located to the side of the lake, the entrance is marked by a modest shack, with a wooden table and a couple of benches.
Though in need of a touch-up, the trail is stunning as it overlooks the crystal waters of Lugu Lake, combined with the sky, its a vast expanse of blue that will clear any mind.
Fittingly named, the trail forms a 3.1-kilometre loop, catering to beginners with its accessible terrain. However, it’s worth noting that, given the current active weather conditions, the trail is muddy, and certain sections may be obstructed by fallen trees.
During our hike, we encountered a fallen branch which was easily moved aside, and observed portions of the path eroded due to the ongoing torrential rains.
Yet, despite the tall grass and swarm of mosquitoes – too many for 8am – we trekked on getting lost in the myriad of sounds.
Situated amid settlements and modern developments, as is the case with the Lugu Loop, many Bruneian hiking trails offer a blend of urban and natural soundscapes.
The hum of cars and traffic becomes a symphony on one side, yet a few steps inward, you’re engulfed in the rhythmic beats of the jungle.
The contrast is striking, however over a kilometre in, the ambient noise of human activity is swallowed up by the harmonious chaos of the jungle.
From the rhythmic hum of cicadas to the haunting calls of birds, the paths eventually open up to reveal a wall of luxuriant green jungles.
The journey, though marked by mud and humidity, surprises with its cleanliness, except for the encroaching vegetation. Most importantly, the walk remained serene.
As you progress, the vast blue skies accompanying the start of your hike, gradually yield to the embrace of thick canopies, offering a cooler ambiance.
Further along the trails, you’ll encounter informative handmade signposts.
Some point to paths extending beyond the loop, such as Bukit Pangi, while others playfully implore trekkers not to linger and refrain from littering, expressed with a touch of cheekiness in the Kedayan dialect.
The best part of this trail is its hidden gem – the cascades, or locally referred to as wasai, nestled around the mid-way point.
As the trail unfolds, a secluded expanse reveals itself, featuring a small shack, that a friend shared, is known to be utilised by campers and foragers.
Initially, the wasai appears unassuming, with three or four petite waterfalls culminating in a gentle stream. Despite the frequent rain and mud, one might expect sediment runoff to cloud this natural wonder, but not in this case.
From a distance, the water seems muddy yet upon taking a dip, its clarity surprises.
The group that invited me only instructed to bring extra clothes and towels for what I presumed was a swim in Lugu Lake, so I was unaware of the wasai. Imagine my delight at stumbling upon this hidden jewel during our hike. We spent about an hour at the wasai, relishing its refreshing streams.
Some of the group engaged in a friendly competition, attempting to catch the largest river shrimp before releasing them back into the water.
Resuming the loop, the return journey follows the subsequent stream. Despite a somewhat precarious-looking tree-turned-bridge crossing, the trail back is otherwise straightforward.
The echoes of laughter from kids and families enjoying Lugu Lake signalled our return to the entrance.
It’s still a mystery as to how such natural wonders can be unearthed in seemingly unlikely places. Nevertheless, I find comfort in the endless beautiful discoveries that Brunei never fails to offer. – Wardi Wasil
