Beyond the Great Wall

1737

Exploring China’s hidden Islamic treasures

As the holiday season began, the air infused with a palpable sense of excitement and anticipation as I opted for a destination that initially wasn’t part of my year-end travel aspirations, particularly a winter landscape.

My adventure took an unexpected turn when the Beijing Muslim Tour caught my eye, and the city has consistently held a special place among my favoured travel destination, prompting my keen interest in exploring the city.

It didn’t require much persuasion for me to decide on joining a group tour especially after perusing a meticulously crafted itinerary package from one of the local travel agencies in the Sultanate.

The tour not only promised a journey to a place I always yearned to revisit, but also included a visit to China’s iconic and historically significant landmark, the Great Wall of China.

The writer in a group photo with the delegation at the Qianmen cultural area. PHOTO: LYNA MOHAMAD

The irresistible allure of the city prompted me to pick up the phone and contact a dear friend at the travel agency, expressing my eagerness to embark on another adventure.

A fun fact, Beijing is a city adorned with numerous national monuments and museums that stand not only as the most but as one of the Muslim-populated urban centres boasting seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

These iconic attractions, including the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace, Ming Tombs, Zhoukoudian and segments of the Great Wall and the Grand Canal, collectively draw tourists from around the globe.

Amidst the rich historical tapestry, Beijing hosts a multitude of mosques and Muslim-friendly restaurants, fostering a vibrant community of tens of thousands.

Niujie, a sub-district in the Xicheng District, southwest of Beijing, particularly stands out as a hub where Muslim culture thrives, adding to the city’s diversity and cultural richness.

 

Beijing revisited

Having explored various cities in Greater China, Beijing emerged as my ultimate favourite.

My initial visit to Beijing dates back to 2010, a holiday trip with my son when he was just a little boy. Subsequently, I returned for a work trip as part of the ASEAN Media Exchange Programme, preceding the global pandemic.

This time, my return to Beijing took a different turn as I opted for group travel instead of navigating the historical sites and bustling shopping streets at my own pace.

The group comprised 11 members, encompassing myself and my roommate Petsy, the ever-sweet and affectionate pensioners Haji Awang and Hajah Aishah, our esteemed ‘medical expert’ matron Hajah Fadzil along with her husband Haji Jufry and daughter Neesa.

Adding to the mix was our adept ‘walking translator’ Jasmine and her family – husband Harun and daughter Helena. Finally, leading our excursion was the highly capable tour leader Nur Khadijah Abdullah, affectionately known as ‘Kak Nur’.

Together, this diverse ensemble formed a harmonious team ready to embark on our journey.

Time swiftly passed from confirming my reservation to the departure day, where a slight hiccup almost caused me to miss the flight, mistaking the departure day as Saturday.

Fortunately, the group’s ice-breaking session during the briefing the day before departure helped me seamlessly integrate with my fellow travellers at the airport.

Departing from Brunei at about 2am, we landed safely in Beijing five hours later, greeted by the winter chill of negative six degrees Celsius. Despite being reminded by our travel agent to keep our winter coats at hand, an unfortunate incident occurred when I lost my sentimental-value handphone during immigration clearance.

Setting aside the incident, we were warmly welcomed outside by Leo, a young and friendly tour guide standing in for our original guide Velon on the arrival day.

Leo wasted no time, taking us to our first two destinations on Day One – the Qianmen cultural area and the renowned Wang Fu Jing.

A cafe on Qianmen Street. PHOTO: LYNA MOHAMAD

A fusion of old and new

The Qianmen cultural area stands as a contemporary marvel, seamlessly blending the essence of the old and the new, making it a must-visit destination in Beijing.

Originally known as Zhengyangmen Street during the Ming and Qing dynasties, the street boasts a rich history spanning over 500 years.

Renamed in 1965, Qianmen Street was once home to specialised markets like the meat, cloth, and jewellery markets during the Qing Dynasty, witnessing centuries of historical significance.

The writer poses on Qianmen Street. PHOTO: LYNA MOHAMAD

Today, Qianmen has transformed into a vibrant and historic hub at the heart of the city, teeming with people from all walks of life, exuding a festive atmosphere regardless of the occasion – a street proudly showcasing cultural legacy and intricate decorations.

Surroundings and scenes on Qianmen Street. PHOTOS: LYNA MOHAMAD

Our journey then led us to the Niu Jie Mosque, the oldest and most renowned mosque in Beijing with a history extending over a millennium.

Following a quick lunch at a nearby halal restaurant, we entered the mosque, a place etched in my memory from my first visit to the city.

While some renovations were underway, the mosque retained its timeless charm, offering excellent facilities, particularly for women.                      

The well-structured ablution area with hot water and the availability of both squat and sitting toilets made it exceptionally convenient for female visitors.

Spanning approximately 10,000 square metres, the Niu Jie Mosque seamlessly integrates Islamic and Han Chinese cultural and architectural influences.

The exterior showcases traditional Chinese cultural elements, while the interior features a harmonious blend of Islamic calligraphy and Chinese design.

The main prayer hall accommodates over 1,000 worshipers at a time.

Constructed from timber, the mosque is home to significant cultural relics, including the upright tablet of an emperor’s decree proclaimed in 1694 during the Qing Dynasty. As we explored the Niu Jie Mosque, we not only marvelled at its unique architecture but also had the opportunity to delve into the intersection of Islam and Chinese cultural history.

This marks the conclusion of my journal entry for Day One of my recent holiday trip to historical Beijing.

Browsing for warm ponchos and hand gloves at one of the stalls in Qianmen. PHOTO: LYNA MOHAMAD
Beautifully-crafted hand fans at Qianmen cultural area. PHOTO: LYNA MOHAMAD

Stay tuned for more explorations of historical sites in the remaining days of my sojourn in the city! – Lyna Mohamad