It’s been quite a few years since I last visited Labuan. My previous trips were mostly family-related, with several relatives residing on the island.
Of course, there were the occasional getaways with friends for some beach and sun, but beyond the town and a handful of food spots, much of this federal territory remained unexplored for me.
However, a recent two-night stay in Labuan opened my eyes to the island’s laid-back charm. Meeting up with a friend who could drive us around made all the difference. Despite Labuan’s compact size – it takes less than 30 minutes to cross from one side to the other – I had the chance to experience the island not just from a local’s perspective but also to rekindle my appreciation for it.
Granted, two nights is a short stay, and with the active monsoon season, we lost at least a day to relentless rain. That meant we couldn’t explore as much as we’d hoped. Still, even in that brief time, Labuan had plenty to offer – especially when it came to food.
Labuan, a small island off the coast of Borneo, has a history shaped by its role as a coal mining settlement in the 19th Century and as a strategic military site during World War II.
Labuan’s industrial past lingers in the form of one of its most intriguing landmarks – the towering red-brick Chimney Tower.
Standing near the Chimney Museum, this enigmatic structure remains a subject of debate, though many believe it was part of the island’s coal processing infrastructure.
Perched above a former coal mine, the museum brings this history to life, offering a glimpse into Labuan’s coal mining era from 1847 to 1911.
Though compact, it captivates visitors with historical photographs, artefacts, and interactive displays that paint a vivid picture of the miners’ lives and the industry’s lasting impact on the island.
The museum is conveniently located near numerous attractions; however, one of the most iconic is the Labuan Chimney Trail, a three- to four-kilometre loop with multiple entrances that leads to remnants from World War II. The trail is generally considered a moderately challenging route, taking an average of 42 minutes to complete.
We found the hike to be easy to moderate. Despite embarking on it the day after a full-day deluge, the weather was blistering, but the heat did not diminish the breathtaking views the trail offers.
What started as a short trek through the jungle soon unfolded into rolling hills, where tall grass swayed in every direction, carried by the powerful sea cliff winds – the true highlight of this trail. Being a popular route, there’s a good chance of crossing paths with fellow hikers.
Yet, no matter how many people you meet along the way, the vast, panoramic view of the sea has a way of making you feel small in the best possible way – turning this hike into an unforgettable experience.
Despite being a sightseeing area, the trail passes by numerous historical sites, among the most notable being the Gedung Ubat.
This structure is cylindrical, approximately 3.5 metres in height, with a cone-shaped roof and a doorway overlooking the sea. It is believed to have been an ammunition store used by the Japanese army during World War II.
Unfortunately, we did not complete the full loop, which supposedly leads to not only a British graveyard with tombstones dating back to 1866, believed to commemorate workers from the Labuan Eastern Archipelago Company, but also sites with coal formations and a sea cave.
With the trail behind us and hunger setting in, food quickly became our next priority. Since the site is located in the northern part of the island, it only made sense to explore the local dining options nearby. One spot worth highlighting is Pantai Batu Manikar, just minutes away from the Chimney site.
While there are a few food vendors, the true draw – like in many places across Labuan – is the laid-back atmosphere and stunning view. The eateries here embrace a rustic, by-the-sea charm, with simple open-air huts for diners to relax in. Although we ordered food there, we also brought along some locally made donuts to enjoy in one of these charming huts, making for the perfect post-hike treat.
Since we’re on the topic of food, I have to mention one dish I hadn’t expected to enjoy as much as I did – fish soup. While we had sampled numerous local spots, this particular dish, which is more commonly associated with Sabahan cuisine, stood out.
It’s typically served with either mee kolok or bi hoon, accompanied by a choice of broth – either a tomato-based soup or a spicy tom yam.
At first glance, it might seem like a simple dish, but the depth of flavour in the mee kolok broth was unlike anything I’d ever tasted.
There was a distinct richness, possibly from a more intensely flavoured fish broth or oil. When paired with the fiery tom yam fish soup and crispy fried ikan merah fillets, the combination created a flavour profile that completely blew my mind.
What makes it even more exciting is that multiple eateries across Labuan serve their own versions of this dish. While this particular one left a lasting impression, I’m eager to try others in the future – and I’d definitely encourage anyone visiting to do the same. Who knows? You might just find a new favourite.
Labuan may be small, but it certainly isn’t lacking in places to explore. From its historical sites and scenic trails to its underrated food scene, this tiny island holds more than meets the eye.
Our short visit barely scratched the surface, and there’s still so much left to discover – hidden beaches, local markets, and perhaps even more unforgettable meals.
Whether you’re drawn to history, adventure or simply a laid-back escape, Labuan has a quiet charm that lingers long after you leave. And for me, this visit was just the beginning. – Wardi Wasil
