AP/AFP – In 1958, Saint Laurent unveiled his first collection for Christian Dior. It was a global event which saw the designer draw thousands upon thousands of screaming fans who thronged avenues. Some things never change, even in 65 years.
Kim Jones used that women’s collection as the inspiration for his men’s – mirroring its contrasts of masculine versus feminine and British tailoring versus couture.
Jones also captured its fluidity to produce a gender-neutral display with softened shapes and loose waists. Unbuttoned suits that unfurled cut a nice trapeze silhouette, as did clever white knit sweaters with sleeves snipped away to flap like a poncho.
Jones did his homework. In Saint Laurent’s debut, he famously abandoned Dior’s cinched waists and lengthy fabrics in favour of more fluid shapes in which the body disappeared, effectively inventing the trapeze silhouette.
Some Jones styles, like an update marine sailor top, were lifted directly from the 1958 archive.
But this sublime show was much more than mere homage. Three-dimensional printed shoes followed contemporary sheer organza vests with tiered banding, and looked aggressive yet feminine. Off the shoulder tailoring on one embellished pearl coat simultaneously evoked a slouchy rebel and an opening flower.
