For Bruneians, cross-country drives are practically a rite of passage, especially during the bustling holiday season.
Border queues stretch long and winding as families venture into neighbouring towns for a well-deserved getaway or some early school shopping – scenes that have likely flooded your social media feed this month.
Last weekend, I joined the ranks but instead of heading to the usual hotspots like Kota Kinabalu or Miri, I found myself amidst the peaceful charm of Sabah’s rural towns, thanks to my Sipitang relatives who are adept at transforming ordinary weekends into epic adventures.
Our first highlight was the drive from Sipitang to Tenom, a picturesque 81-kilometre route that takes you through lush valleys, dense greenery and quaint rural townships. This quieter road offers a more relaxed drive compared to the familiar route through Kota Kinabalu.
Along the road, you’ll find a turnoff to Long Pasia, a rural village in Sipitang known for its ecotourism. My relatives always say it’s the perfect spot for camping activities, surrounded by the natural beauty of the area.
Once we hit the Tenom section of the road, the difference in maintenance is immediately obvious. The drive here is much smoother, and although the ascent isn’t as sharp as Kundasang’s, caution is still key.
There’s a spot along the road that caught my relative’s eye – what appeared to be just a neglected patch of land, littered with trash.
But this stretch of road is known for something unusual. Ask the locals about a place called Bukit Layang–Layang, and they’ll tell you that at night, when the area is pitch dark and the road is virtually deserted, something strange happens.
The quiet shoulder of the road becomes a bustling market with people appearing seemingly out of nowhere. The local advice? If you happen to find yourself there, don’t stop.
Just keep driving straight through, as the market isn’t what it seems.
Tenom, often dubbed the “Coffee Capital of Sabah”, has a history as rich as its coffee. Its name originates from the Murut word tenom, meaning “a settlement by the river,” a fitting description for this peaceful yet vibrant town.
But Tenom is also tied to the story of Panglima Antanom, the legendary Murut warrior who led the Rundum Rebellion in 1915.
The Tenom market, our original reason for the road trip, is a vibrant hub that comes alive on Wednesdays and Sundays, where vendors from various indigenous tribes gather to sell fresh produce, handmade crafts and all sorts of interesting finds.
At the market, the produce stands out in every sense. You’ll find homegrown fruits with intriguing parentage from places like Taiwan, alongside vegetables, herbs and snacks unique to the region.
Sadly, we didn’t get the chance to savour Tenom’s most celebrated export – its renowned coffee. After a quick lunch, we hit the road again, heading towards Keningau.
Keningau, named after the keningau tree (also known as kayu manis or cinnamon tree), is one of Sabah’s oldest districts and a key agricultural hub.
The town once served as an administrative centre during the British colonial period. Today, Keningau is undergoing rapid development, with new areas like Bandar Baru Keningau transforming into a bustling district.
Here, you’ll find modern shopping centres, residential complexes, and a growing number of dining spots, which add a fresh, contemporary vibe to the town.
Like Tenom, our visit to Keningau involved a trip to the market, but by the time we arrived around midday, it had already closed.
So, we decided to explore Bandar Baru Keningau, which provided a great alternative for a quick stroll and a taste of the town’s evolving scene.
The weather in Keningau can be a refreshing change from the coastal heat of Sabah.
Nestled in the Crocker Range, the district enjoys cooler evenings, particularly during the rainy season, which adds a welcome chill to the air.
Now, if the Crocker Range sounds familiar, that’s because it’s part of the broader Kinabalu Range, which includes the iconic Mount Kinabalu.
The Crocker Range, running parallel to Kinabalu, contributes to the lush, cooler climate that makes the region a popular destination for those seeking respite from the sweltering lowlands. From Keningau, it’s just a short drive to Ranau, about 50 to 60 kilometres (km) away, taking around two hours. The journey to Kundasang, a further 70-80km, takes a little over two hours.
Our journey, of course, didn’t lead us to Ranau or Kundasang, as after Keningau, we continued on to Kimanis.
This marked the highest point in our journey so far, bringing us closer to the cool, mountainous highlands we had previously mentioned.
Kimanis, located about 35km southwest of Keningau, is known for its breathtaking views and tranquil atmosphere. The area, which sits at an altitude of around 500-700 metres above sea level, is part of the larger West Coast Division of Sabah.
Along the way, you’ll find plenty of roadside cafés, restaurants, and homestays, making it a perfect pit stop. Here, you can enjoy the cool breeze, unwind, and take in the spectacular vistas of the surrounding valleys.
After Kimanis, the road began a continuous descent, leading us eventually to Bongawan.
From there, it was just an hour’s drive to Kota Kinabalu, along the coastal.
A quick stop at Bongawan provided a chance to stretch our legs before we continued our way back towards Sipitang, retracing our path and completing the 12-hour journey.
This trip, which took us from the cooler highlands to the coastal plains was a unique glimpse into Sabah’s rich diversity – its landscapes, its agricultural hubs and of course, its warm-hearted people.
Every turn along the way opened up a new experience, making the 12-hour journey feel like a rewarding adventure. – Wardi Wasil
