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A cultural fashion

Airul Shahrizan bin Haji Mohd Daud is on a mission to bring the dastar back into everyday life.

For this former civil servant, the traditional headgear, which is often worn during cultural or auspicious events, should be embraced as a part of daily attire, just as much as any other modern accessory.

“There’s this perception I often come across,” said the 48-year-old, “that when someone wears a dastar outside of events, it’s seen as over the top. But then again, we regularly see people wearing Western-style hats without question.”

Airul Shahrizan’s work goes beyond simply making the dastar more accessible.

He is dedicated to raising awareness about the headgear’s rich history and normalising its use in the present day.

To him, the dastar is not just a cultural artefact but a symbol of identity, one that has long been tied to the Malay Archipelago.

Historically, the dastar was worn by Malay rulers, warriors, and scholars, symbolising wisdom, authority, and respect.

Traditionally made of cloth and wrapped intricately around the head, it offered both practical protection from the sun and a statement of status.

ABOVE & BELOW: ‘Dastar’ on display at an exhibition. PHOTO: IZAH AZAHARI
PHOTO: IZAH AZAHARI
PHOTO: IZAH AZAHARI
ABOVE & BELOW: Airul Shahrizan bin Haji Mohd Daud holds one of his ‘dastar’; and a close up of a ‘dastar’ pattern. PHOTO: IZAH AZAHARI
PHOTO: IZAH AZAHARI

Over time, however, the dastar began to be reserved for formal occasions, losing its place as an everyday garment as more modern, Western styles took over.

But Airul Shahrizan is determined to change that. He believes that by encouraging Bruneians to wear the dastar regularly, it can be reintegrated into daily life, fostering a deeper connection to local heritage and ensuring that this iconic headgear continues to be worn with pride for generations to come.

The dastar, influenced by Arabic culture, has a deep-rooted history in the Malay Nusantara.

Long before, when Brunei was a hub attracting traders from far and wide, head coverings like the sarban and sahal, originating from the Middle East, began to shape local fashion.

“However, there is a common misconception that the dastar is reserved for special occasions, when, in reality, it was traditionally worn daily,” explained Airul Shahrizan.

It served as a symbol of identity, particularly among those of high status, and could be easily recognised from afar as part of formal attire.

The material and pattern of the dastar further contributed to this identification.

“There are over 20 diffe-rent variations of the dastar, each with its own unique style and meaning,” he added.

The Dastar Teruna, or as he called it, the Ibu Dastar, he explained, represented the quintessential Bruneian dastar, predating the emergence of the many different patterns seen today.

He also mentioned the Dastar Nakhoda Trong, traditionally worn by ship captains who once safeguarded the country’s waters.

Another notable pattern is the Singa Meleleh, a style frequently worn by noblemen. Airul Shahrizan highlighted the significance of each dastar’s name, which he believes reflects the creativity and ingenuity of the Malay people.

“The names of the dastar patterns are often linked to the grandeur of life; they are derived from people, nature, and animals,” shared Airul Shahrizan, now a proud grandfather of two.

While the artisan acknowledges a reluctance among the younger generation to embrace the dastar, he observed that the market for these traditional items within ASEAN is steadily growing, underscoring their increasing relevance.

“I see more and more dastar being incorporated into regular events, such as among archers and even motorcyclists when they gather,” he shared.

Airul Shahrizan is also part of a collective of regional artisans who convene at various cultural landmarks across ASEAN to exchange ideas and strategise ways to strengthen the appeal and preservation of heritage and cultural products.

Much like Thai silk or African patterns, which have earned recognition on international runways, Airul Shahrizan aspires for the dastar – and other facets of Malay heritage – to be celebrated globally, showcasing the beauty and distinctiveness of these cultural treasures. – Wardi Wasil

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