The last time I visited Bintulu was just before the pandemic, on a familiarisation trip. Though it was only a brief two-night stay, the experience left a lasting impression.
Located about three hours from Miri, this small coastal town is known for its oil industry and the vibrant Borneo International Kite Festival, held early in the year.
Despite its industrial reputation, Bintulu offers a laid-back charm, with scenic coastal views.
This time, I returned with friends for a brief escape from the demands of work and life in general, excited to show them Bintulu’s secret finds, while also discovering a few new spots myself.
With memories of pre-pandemic travel feeling distant, our expectations were modest. But the trip was as much about the journey as the destination, part of our shared goal to explore more of Borneo.
The drive from Brunei-Muara to Bintulu took about five hours. The route was mostly smooth, following the Bintulu-Miri highway, with little need for detours along the way.
A TOWN BRIMMING WITH CULTURE
Bintulu is known for many things, but above all, it’s a town that proudly celebrates both its cultural and natural beauty.
One of its most famous offerings is sambal belacan, which you’ll find stacked like logs at the town’s bustling market.
Located downtown, the market is divided into two sections: Pasar Utama and Pasar Tamu, nestled right next to each other.
Pasar Utama, the main market, may seem like a typical open-air marketplace, but on lucky days, you can stumble upon some truly unique finds.
Despite its rustic set-up, the market is clean and offers a surprising variety of delights, from fresh fruit – including impressively large, juicy grapes – to freshly baked bread.
We were lucky enough to find a vendor selling mentoa fruit and, naturally, couldn’t resist picking up a few kilos.
The more intriguing part of our visit was to Pasar Tamu, also known locally as Pasar Iban.
The Iban community, like much of Sarawak, has a strong presence in Bintulu, and this market is where you’ll find vendors selling traditional goods and delicacies reflecting their rich cultural heritage, some of which are familiar to us as well.
From pakis (fern) and ulat sago (sago grubs) to minyak buah engkabang (illipe nut oil), these foraged delights offer a window into the Iban way of life.
And of course, no coastal town like Bintulu would be complete without its seafood.
A must-try local delicacy is umai, similar to ceviche but made with raw fish. We sampled a version with raw tenggiri (mackerel), and it was absolutely divine.
Just be warned – like many Southeast Asian salads, the spice level can be quite intense, so brace yourself for a fiery kick!
It would also be remiss not to try Bintulu’s renowned river prawn dishes, known as udang galah, or to indulge in one of the town’s popular shell-out feasts. For seafood lovers, Bintulu is a culinary paradise.
COASTAL SPLENDOUR
Bintulu certainly satisfies the stomach, but it also provides a feast for the eyes and soul, especially with its natural beauty just a short 20-minute drive from the city centre.
Unfortunately, during this visit, we encountered some active weather, which limited our outdoor activities.
However, we did explore several shopping centres, which, I must say, offer brands that any Bruneian would appreciate.
Eventually, when the sun emerged from behind the torrential downpours, we managed to enjoy some fun and breath-taking outdoor spots.
One such nugget is Taman Tumbina, a zoological and botanical garden established over two decades ago as a living tribute to Borneo’s flora and fauna.
The park, which saw a revival after reopening just before the pandemic, is home to a variety of species. Aside from the magnificent birds of prey, there are plenty of other animals to be charmed by.
My personal favourite was the binturong, or bearcat – a nocturnal creature that seemed content dozing in its enclosure all day (honestly, life goals). The wild cats were also incredibly adorable, despite being apex predators.
Lastly, no trip to Bintulu would be complete without a visit to Pantai Tanjung Batu, a beach park that stretches along the coastline, offering several vantage points to take in the stunning sunsets.
Whether from a higher perch or right where the sands sink between your toes, the golden hour at this beach is truly something that needs to be experienced firsthand. As the town’s lights twinkle along the coast, the contrast between nature and city life blurs beautifully, creating a picture-perfect effect that’s ideal for capturing memorable photos. I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect from Bintulu, but the town certainly didn’t fall short of surprises.
It felt like the perfect destination for some peace and relaxation, especially in the company of good travel buddies.
If you’re looking for a relaxed escape that offers both cultural richness and natural beauty, Bintulu just might surprise you too – so why not pack your bags and see it for yourself? – Wardi Wasil
