Toasted almond broth and asparagus turn ravioli into a light springtime dish

Joe Yonan

THE WASHINGTON POST – Sometimes, it seems impossible to find the time to cook the very things that your body and spirit need. You are rushing from task to task, juggling work and family and maybe school, and the stress starts to compound until you find yourself worried about being worried, tired of being tired, and in the mood to do anything other than the work required to get a healthful meal on the table.

Heidi Swanson knows the feeling. Her latest book Super Natural Simple comes “from a busy time in my life,” she wrote. She and her husband Wayne Bremser moved from San Francisco to Los Angeles while she was working on the book, and they bounced from one Airbnb kitchen to another while looking for a home. Then the pandemic happened, and last fall her mother died and her father fell ill shortly thereafter.

“I came to realise that this is actually the only time to write a book like this,” she wrote. “When you’re at your busiest (and feeling overwhelmed or overextended), cooking and eating well are usually the earliest casualties.”

On the flip side, she told me in an interview, “When you cook a meal for yourself and your family and friends, and if you have good leftovers, it really bolsters your mood.”

Finding time to cook nourishing foods, she added, “is a foundation for feeling good… not just for yourself but for everyone around you.”

Ravioli and asparagus in toasted almond broth. PHOTO: THE WASHINGTON POST

She’s got a way of bringing a sense of effortlessness to her recipes, which are stylish and interesting without being intimidating. Her latest recipes are more streamlined than ever, with a mere handful of ingredients – and lots of substitution options – combining in surprising, flavourful ways.

Take this ravioli and asparagus dish, which stars a broth built from toasted sliced almonds that you blend with vegetable broth and lemon juice.

“There’s this idea that a good broth has to be complicated, but I often prefer a simple, clean broth that’s just beyond salty water,” Swanson told me. “The toasting adds a nice depth of flavour that everybody likes.”

Even better, this is quick. You boil store-bought ravioli until it’s almost tender, then throw chopped asparagus into the water for the last minute or two. Then, it’s simply a matter of pouring the warmed broth over the ravioli and asparagus and adding garnishes.

The result is a refreshingly light change of pace from ravioli in a tomato-based pasta sauce: good for spring, and a perfect way to add much-needed support to a busy life.

RAVIOLI AND ASPARAGUS IN TOASTED ALMOND BROTH

Servings: Four

Total time: 25 mins

INGREDIENTS

One and a half cups toasted sliced almonds, divided

Two and a half cups hot vegetable broth or water

Two tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Half teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

Quarter teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

One pound ravioli of your choice

One pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into bite-size pieces

Two tablespoons chopped chives

Two scallions, thinly sliced

Two tablespoons olive oil

Quarter cup grated Parmesan cheese

One lemon, cut into wedges

DIRECTIONS

In a high-speed blender, combine one cup of the almonds and the broth or water, and blend until smooth. Add the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Taste, and season with more salt and pepper if needed. Transfer to a small saucepan, covered, over low heat to keep warm.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the ravioli according to the package instructions. Add the asparagus to the ravioli in the final minute of cooking.

Drain the ravioli and asparagus and divide them among four bowls. Pour the broth over the pasta and top with the chives, scallions, the remaining almonds, a drizzle of olive oil and the Parmesan, if using. Serve hot, with lemon wedges on the side for squeezing at the table.