AP – Against the backdrop of the fitted, tailored suit that is the house’s staple garment this season, Thom Browne took historic fashion items and humorously subverted them.
The codpiece, a covering flap or pouch attached to the crotch of men’s pants, was fashioned atop tailored shorts in pale seersucker and a tennis skirt-tutu hybrid.
The oversized ‘pannier’ skirts Marie Antoinette made famous with help from rigid undergarments was the idea behind a giant pair of culottes and a coat which spread out horizontally like the dramatic silhouette of the 18th century French queen.
It’s a style that at Thom Browne also spawned ribbed American football helmets, which were sported by models wearing ballet shoes in this highly inventive spring collection.
The message behind the 38 looks was clear: Rules pertaining to culture, gender and history are only there to be broken.