Style & Density

VOGUE/AFP – If — thanks to the horror movie Midsommar — Sweden now reminds you of creepy cults, you may have found a home at Sweden’s own Acne Studios. While Jonny Johansson didn’t spend the lockdown period on a brightly lit forest farm run by lunatics, it did fill him with a sense of spiritual rebirth.

“I feel positive. I spent more time with myself and my family, and just in the studio with people. It’s been a less stressful period, although the stress has come from somewhere else. I’ve been quite happy, actually, although I know that sounds weird.”

Maybe that explained why Johansson’s show notes referenced “gatherings for a spiritual moonrise”, and the garments quite literally reflected it. Everywhere you looked, there was a shiny, metallic, or iridescent texture.

The shine mingled with raw materials like crinkled paper and washed linens. Styled together, it had a certain density about it. A raggy dress in stained leather and tattered netting drove home the cultish association. There may have been a stringy straitjacket in there too.