Structured & Ethereal

AP/AFP – Chanel, Viard discovered, had been profoundly inspired in all her designs by the ancient Cistercian Abbey— with its flowers, uniforms and stained-glass artistry.

The theme made for a more haunting collection than normal — a mood emphasised by loud, spooky music and models that slowly crisscrossed the courtyard like they were in a trance.

A take on a convent schoolgirl uniform opened the show as a signature Chanel tweed skirt-suit. It was cut sharply, with a round ecclesiastical white collar and baggy white preppy ankle socks.

Mosaic patterns in panels evoking stained glass appeared on an equally strict jacket in pastel blue and sand. Apart from the occasional flash of colour, most of the designs came in black and white.