AP – The house that redefined women’s fashion with menswear tuxedos in the 1960s lurched the opposite way this season.
Designer Anthony Vaccarello brought the dark, elongated silhouettes of Saint Laurent’s women’s wardrobe to a gender-fluid and aesthetically precise fall men’s display.
Yet the 46-piece-collection, while heavy on black, was sometimes light on new ideas.
Floor-sweeping Matrix-style leather coats, with Vaccarello’s signature exaggerated statement shoulders, found their place alongside slicked-back hair and sunglasses, but also tuxedo coats and necks tied in exuberant bows harking to the New Romantics era.
A glossy, black leather bow contrasting with a matte black wool coat was a typical style for the Belgian-born designer, but nonetheless one of the highlights of the show.