‘Psychedelic’ warp

AFP/ VOGUE – Virgil Abloh has returned with an even more solid sense of the leadership position he’s won for a new generation through the medium of Off-White, and the vast new fan base he’s subsequently brought to the doors of Louis Vuitton.

The theme of all-inclusive chic worked through to plenty of the season’s pencil skirts, buttery trench coats and a notable section of black-and-white houndstooth checked suiting, the pattern glitched into what Abloh described as a “psychedelic” warp. Toward the end, there was a selection of more familiar workwear jackets, interspersed with grunge-referencing pieces.

Lo and behold, though, a ’90s “slip dress” was made in cornflower blue leather, far more “designer” than any lingerie original Courtney Love ever wore back in the day. That piece stood for a whole other point in the show, too. Hidden within its trompe l’oeil embroidered lace trim was practically the only branding Abloh deployed, the famous Off-White cross with arrows, scattered in miniature.