AP – Prada returned to the live runway, the third of the Prada-Simons era, with a deconstruction of traditional evening wear – trains, corsets and evening gowns.
Simons bemoaned the “irreality” of an evening gown “however beautiful”, and it is certainly the case that many gowns have spent the pandemic hanging, unheralded, in closets.
“These clothes can become complicated: evening dresses, historical costume. We want to make it uncomplicated, easy, that feels modern,” Simons said. Mini-skirts in couture silk trailed long sashes, sometimes left floating behind. More formally, skirts sported full tuxedo tails. They were worn with sweaters, distressed leather bomber jackets and sleeveless blouses with black-and-white prints that laced up for a punk feel.
Knitwear was soft, with breastplate or corset detailing, finished with the same leather bicep straps. The colour palette ranged from navy and black to cotton candy pink and canary yellow. Magenta accented acid green, which in turn complemented girlish pink. Shoes had a low, cantilevered heel, giving the sensation of suspension.
For Prada, it is a mistake to discuss the show in terms of a “return to normal”. “We have learned that we in fashion engage with a much wider world,” Prada said in the show notes.
“After all that has happened, how can you just go back?”
