G Daniela Galarza
THE WASHINGTON POST – Fresh salsas abound in the Latin American tropics, where produce can grow year-round, making it easy to chop, grind, blend or puree fresh fruits, vegetables, spices and herbs into savoury or sweet sauces.
But pico de gallo is special in my mind, both because of its relative ubiquity and the way its straightforward formula enhances the rich flavours of ripe tomatoes.
The most common type of pico de gallo, which literally means “beak of rooster”, is a Mexican salsa fresca (fresh salsa) or salsa crudo (raw salsa).
Uncooked chopped onion, sometimes minced garlic, diced fresh serrano – which some said looks like a rooster’s beak – or jalapeño chiles, cilantro, lime juice or vinegar, salt and maybe a bit of oil are added to diced fresh tomatoes. It’s really best served at room temperature, a few minutes after it’s made, just as all the textures and flavours have had a chance to meet.
“To me, this kind of salsa almost resembles a little garnish of fresh salad, recalling that the words ‘sauce’ and ‘salad’ (in Spanish, salsa and ensalada) are really cousins,” wrote Maricel Presilla in Gran Cocina Latina, her encyclopedic cookbook on the cuisines of Latin America.
Through that lens, pico de gallo can be far more than a saucy garnish. Made from summer’s best tomatoes, it can be the centrepiece of a whole meal.
With a texture that can range from big and chunky to pencil eraser-size bits, it can become many things. The larger you cut the tomatoes and onions, the more salad-like it will be. Crumble in some cotija or feta and eat it with flour tortillas for a simple lunch. Add lettuce and quinoa for a heartier salad. Cut everything into bits just big enough to fit inside a roosters’ beak and it begs for chips for dipping and scooping, with perhaps a bowl of stewed beans on the side.
As Presilla points out, the root of salsa is “the Latin sal, meaning ‘salt’ in the extended sense of something lending relish or zest”. Think of pico de gallo as a seasoning, and it takes on even greater potential.
It can top tacos and fajitas, of course, but don’t stop there. Eggs, bean burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches of all sorts and soups could all benefit from a spoonful or more of the chopped fresh mix.
Pico de Gallo
I think of pico de gallo as a great way to practise my knife skills. I try to get every bit of tomato and onion to be the same one-quarter-of-an-inch cube. It can be relaxing – trust me! But if you’re short on time or patience, pulse the ingredients in a food processor until they’re chunky and eat it right away for a similar vibe.
Tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro and lime juice are a classic combination, but there’s no reason not to play around if you want to.
INGREDIENTS
Two medium ripe tomatoes, cut into quarter-inch dice
Half medium white onion, cut into quarter-inch dice
One small serrano or jalapeño pepper, seeded and cut into quarter-inch dice
One clove garlic, minced
Quarter cup fresh lime juice, plus more as needed
Quarter cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems
Half teaspoon fine sea or table salt
One tablespoon avocado or olive oil (optional)
DIRECTIONS
In a medium, non-reactive bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, jalapeño or serrano, garlic, lime juice, cilantro, salt and avocado or olive oil, if using. Taste, and season with additional salt and/or lime juice, if desired.
