Phenomenal illusion

AFP/ VOGUE – Jonathan Anderson’s reading of the fashion situation for women is quite simply this, “We have to push it somewhere new.”

Fashion might always seem to be about that — but among all the churning out of market-ready product, the idea of luxury fashion as the medium of the avant-garde somehow went missing.

Anderson is now fully committed to bringing it back.

“Dressing to impress—I think that’s an exciting thing,” he declared, as he described his mission.

“Looking at building new types of silhouettes that can work in an abstract way. Trying to take a risk, maybe in my own self.”

What he began with—the volumised “entrance-making” shapes he showed in his terrific collection for his eponymous brand in London—was followed through with inspirational conviction at Loewe show.

It’s always a good sign of innovation—of things we haven’t quite seen before—when clothes can’t be easily described in stock fashion language.