AFP/WWD – If there ever was a field that embodies the boundary between fantasy and reality, it would be couture. Except Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato sees it as an endless territory, not a thin divide.
“The liminal space, the unclear area, between abstract notions like ‘men/women’, ‘East/West’ or fantasy and reality is getting clearer and clearer these days, thanks to science, technology or knowledge. There is hope and possibility in those areas, that’s why I decided to explore them this season,” he said.
With white-clad dancers writhing in the Oratoire du Louvre like embodiments of the smoke from which models of all genders wearing his spring collection emerged, pointy ear ornaments and all, he certainly had the fantasy element down pat.
Another dichotomy Nakazato had wanted to explore was the one between his futuristic endeavours and the handcrafts of yesteryears. He even pointed out that the embroideries on his first few looks had been done in collaboration with an 80-year-old kimono embroidery specialist.
Applying learnings from his bio-smocking experiments to natural-fiber fabrics, he teased volume out of rectangular patterns by pulling gowns into shape by cords.