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    Esquites tacos with Takis and black beans inspired by Mexico City

    THE WASHINGTON POST – I’ve written a lot about the months I spent living in Mexico City because it’s an incredible place, and I wish I could find a way to go back for an extended period of time.

    The experience remains one of the best of my life. My memories of it range from clear as a cloudless day to hazy, like the hot steam coming off a taquero’s comal.

    I wish I could time travel back to that period, when my nights were spent dashing from restaurant to restaurant, soaking up the city’s booming scene and my days were filled with some of the best, most elaborate street food I’ve ever seen.

    If you’ve never been: Go.

    Mexico City’s street food is on another level. The flavours of a quesadilla – freshly fried, still glowing hot – on a busy corner can rival that of mole at one of the best-ranked restaurants in the world. I’ve long bristled at the notion that only a fine-dining, starched tablecloth restaurant is worthy of stars. Mexico City’s street food is top notch – and evolving to be better every day.

    This recipe, for tacos stuffed with esquites, black beans and Takis, is an homage to my memories of Mexico City’s street food greatest hits.

    Esquites tacos with black beans and crushed Takis. PHOTO: THE WASHINGTON POST

    Tacos, of course, are a street food favourite, so I started there. But then I figured I could fill them with other street food classics.

    Esquites – corn that’s grilled, cut off the cob and then stewed with butter and spices before getting a topping of mayonnaise and chilli flakes – are sold from carts and stalls near busy intersections and along monumental city squares.

    The sellers spoon the sweet corn from massive vats, and then patrons decide how they want the hot kernels dressed. I love them every which way: Buttery and hot in the cooler months, with a touch of Tajin. Or, blended with creamy mayonnaise in the warmer months.

    That extra fat fortifies them, slicking each tooth-like kernel so that it catches the gleam of the sun.

    Takis, cylindrical chips covered in salty red chilli powder, are sold in corner stores and clipped to chip sellers’ racks in parks and along major roadways.

    There are lots of other chips in this category but Takis bring the heat. I decided to garnish these tacos with a few crushed Takis for added crunch and spice.

    But if you have any trouble finding them, any other flavoured chip will do. Just don’t skip the black beans. Lightly stewed and mashed until creamy, they add heft to these otherwise quite light, summery tacos.

    ESQUITES TACOS WITH BLACK BEANS AND CRUSHED TAKIS

    Inspired by the saucy Mexican street corn snack known as esquites, these tacos get additional flavour and texture from black beans and crunchy Takis (or any other spicy chip).

    First, the corn gets grilled (or charred in a skillet) before it’s mixed with mayonnaise or crema, cotija cheese, chillies, lime and salt. Corn tortillas are a natural fit, but use any tortilla you’d like. A final touch of crushed Takis chips adds another layer of spice.

    INGREDIENTS
    – One tablespoon olive oil
    – One clove garlic, minced or finely grated
    – 15 ounce can black or pinto beans, drained and rinsed
    – Two tablespoons tomato paste
    – One tablespoon sazón or another spice seasoning blend
    – Quarter cup water
    – Three large cobs of corn, preferably white, husked
    – Eight small tortillas, preferably corn
    – Two tablespoons mayonnaise or Mexican crema
    – Quarter cup crumbled cotija cheese, or other white cheese, such as feta
    – Half jalapeño chilli peppers, chopped and seeded, if desired
    – Juice of half lime
    – Fine salt
    – Half cup Takis, lightly crushed, for serving (optional)
    – Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish (optional)
    – Lime wedges, for serving (optional)

    DIRECTIONS

    In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the garlic, and stir until very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the beans, tomato paste and sazón.

    Add the water, bring to a rapid simmer and cook for one minute, adding more water as necessary to keep the beans from drying out. Remove from the heat and, using a fork, mash the beans until smooth. Cover and keep warm.

    Heat a grill to medium, about 400 degrees, or heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat, and grill or sear the corn cobs until lightly charred all the way around, about 10 minutes total.

    Let cool on the grill or in the pan until cool enough to handle. Wrap the tortillas in the foil and place them near the corn, to warm up.

    In a medium bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, cheese, jalapeño and lime juice. Slice the corn off the cob and toss it with the mayonnaise mixture. Taste and season with salt and additional lime juice, if desired.

    To serve, lay two warm tortillas on each plate. Spread a circle of black beans on each tortilla, and top with the corn mixture. Garnish with the Takis and cilantro leaves, if using, and serve with the lime wedges on the side, if using.

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