Dishes that are fit for relishing anytime of the day

Nigel Slater

THE GUARDIAN – I can’t remember the last time there wasn’t a bunch of beetroot in the fridge. I know I should be grateful for those garnet-red globes for pickling, soup and grating into chocolate cake.

The leaves of darkest green with their claret veins make it perhaps the tastiest of all the greens.

(I sauté leaves and stems in vegetable oil with spring onions, red chillies and grated ginger, then pile them on to a bowl of steamed rice.)

I should be thankful, too, for their juice – the shot of rose pink it provides in a raita and the way it mingles with green oil and red vinegar in a dressing for roasted vegetables.

We made a soup of them this week. (Two bunches, they seem to breed overnight.)

Not the traditional beefy broth with soured cream I have eaten in Budapest and Warsaw, but a lighter, fresher version.

FROM LEFT: Purple reign: Beetroot soup, pickled cucumber and horseradish; and roast aubergine with halloumi and tahini. PHOTOS: The Observer

These were boiled in their skins, then peeled and simmered in vegetable stock, blitzed to purée and served with crisp pickles and their juices.

We chilled it this time with ice cubes, but as the summer softens into autumn this is a soup just as likely turn up hot, the pickles a sharp and icy contrast for the sweetness of the roots.

The recipe got a blast of horseradish too, first in the broth itself and then more, the ivory root and its funny little grater passed round at the table for those who wanted the heat turned up.

BEETROOT SOUP, PICKLED CUCUMBER AND HORSERADISH

Small, raw beetroot 700g

Fennel seeds two tsp

Yellow mustard seeds two tsp

Cornichons 12

Black peppercorns six

Cider vinegar three tbsp

Cornichon pickling liquid two tbsp

Cucumber 150g

Vegetable stock 500ml

Fresh horseradish root 10g, plus a little to serve

STEP

Bring a large, deep pot of water to the boil and salt it lightly. Trim the beetroot, removing any leaves and keeping them for later, leaving a stubby tuft of stalks in place. (If you cut too closely to the skin the juice will leak out into the water.)

Boil the beetroot for about 25 minutes, depending on size. They are ready when you can pierce them effortlessly with a skewer.

Toast the fennel and yellow mustard seeds in a dry, shallow pan for two minutes, then tip them into a medium-sized mixing bowl.

Slice the cornichons in half lengthways.

Add the black peppercorns, cider vinegar and the cornichons and their pickling liquid.

Peel the cucumber, slice lengthways, then scrape out and discard the core and seeds – a teaspoon is the tool for this.

Cut the cucumber into small dice. Add these to the bowl of vinegar and aromatics, then set aside in the fridge.

Drain the cooked beetroot as soon as it is ready, then remove the skin by sliding it off with your thumbs. Fill the empty beetroot saucepan with the stock, add the beetroots and simmer for 10 minutes.

Grate in the horseradish.

Put the beetroots and the stock into a blender jug (I do this in batches to avoid overflowing) and process to a thick soup.

Serve immediately, with the pickled cucumber and gherkins in the middle, or chill thoroughly first. Grate a little extra horseradish over as you serve.

ROAST AUBERGINE WITH HALLOUMI AND TAHINI

I use the chubby, medium-sized aubergines for this, but use what you have. They are ready when you can crush the flesh with just a little pressure. If you prefer, use feta in place of the halloumi, but keep the pieces quite large, a good four cm in diameter. I tear the cheese rather than cutting with a knife, simply because it looks better. Serves four.

INGREDIENTS

Aubergines three, medium to large

Garlic a whole head

Olive oil 100ml

Halloumi 250g

Natural yogurt 200ml

Tahini three tbsp

Mint 12 leaves

Coriander a small bunch

STEP

Set the oven at 200C/gas mark six. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways, then cut each half, again lengthways, into three. Place them closely together in a roasting tin.

Tuck the head of garlic, whole and unpeeled, among the aubergines and moisten everything with the olive oil. Season and bake for about 50 minutes, until the cut surfaces of the aubergines are golden brown. Check for tenderness; the flesh should be soft enough to crush to a purée. Remove the garlic.

While the aubergines are baking, break the halloumi into about eight large pieces. Add the halloumi after 50 minutes and continue cooking for a further 15, until the halloumi has softened. Squeeze the soft garlic cloves from their skins and crush to a purée. Stir the yogurt into the garlic, then lightly stir in the tahini. Finely chop the mint and coriander leaves and mix into the yogurt dressing.

Bring the aubergines and halloumi to table in their baking dish. Spoon over the tahini and yogurt dressing.