Chaos & Form

AP — Somehow, he does it almost every time, and designer Marc Jacobs did it yet again: Upped his game with a jolt of creative energy, vision and sheer panache.

He said he wanted to strike a contrast with his last show, a riot of colour and fanciful designs. “This collection emphasises restraint, quality of fabrics, make and proportion, valuing simplicity and timelessness.”

A phalanx of models, the first group dressed head to toe in one colour: bright yellow, or baby pink, or tan, or white. They marched purposefully across the stage.

Gradually the clothes became fancier. Model Gigi Hadid appeared in a white leather suit, white ankle socks and black heels with a red cap. Karlie Kloss, supermodel and Project Runway judge, wore a long, sleek white skirt and long-sleeved white top.

One model wore what looked like a tangle of red ribbons on her head. There were ’60s-style sequined mini-dresses and a Jackie Kennedy look-alike, in a long black sequined dress with a cape and elbow-length white gloves. There were two striking dresses — one red, one white — that seemed to be made only of silk roses stitched together.