Calculated couture

AP/ AFP – Alessandro Santori bookended the collection for Ermenegildo Zegna XXX with two suits that encapsulated its disciplined yet otherworldly spirit: The opening single-button light suit had fading block print, the colour of a light cappuccino stain, while its closing purple twin had a sheen that seemed to capture a rainbow.

Ties hung untied inside tailored suits, suede blousons were worn with elegant striped trouser and short-sleeve leather jackets featured architectural pockets. Textiles, some created from fabric cuttings or developed from recycled plastics, were reworked for a wrinkle effect on tailored trousers and suits, while prints had a hazy, shadowy effect.

Flat caps were worn jauntily backwards, and eyewear offered colourful contrasts. Bags included cross-body sunglass cases and leather bound journals for the traveller, and more substantial satchels. The colours — basic cream, grey and lavender with offsets of icy green and peacock blue — played gorgeously against the stormy sky.