Nocturnal Glamour

VOGUE/ AFP – People are still talking about last season’s surprise collaboration between Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix. It was one of those rare occasions that’s already indelibly inscribed in the great book of fashion unforgettables. The psychological afterglow is still with Van Noten, as he cheerfully admitted backstage, “With Christian it was so liberating to enjoy, to play, to not think too far ahead about product. If you think you have a lot of fabric and embroidery, then do some more! Just go for it!”

Perhaps it was that train of thought that led Van Noten to think about ‘nocturnal glamour’. “It’s about going out, enjoying life—having fun, that’s very important!” he remarked. “I thought of this party girl. Something mysterious. Something dark. But I questioned how far it could go, while staying contemporary.”

His solution was to partially casualise the glamour by applying his melee of acid green and fuchsia jungle prints to fluid pajama shapes, and adding ’90s grunge–influenced plaids and hip-tied shirts to the mix.

When the show got deeper into the night, colour intensified: deep purple paillettes, an emerald velvet blazer, a Deco iris print here, a black Lurex tux there. When Van Noten really went for it, Lacroix style, there was a heavily beaded sarong worn with a semi-sheer blouse in a different pattern, opera gloves in another, and snakeskin boots. Equally head-turning: a dress in a violent purple, streaked with silver embroidery. – SARAH MOWER