VOGUE/ AFP – How can human creation unify the diversity of humans? This was the underlying question beneath an Issey Miyake collection entitled ‘Making Speaking, Speaking Making’. Directed by Daniel Ezralow, it started with an emphasis on individuality.
The backdrop was a white sheet featuring a black outline of a human in an outfit. A man emerged and painted a new outline alongside it. Both outlines were then torn from the wall to reveal a group of models in white garments whose seams and sides were edged in black lines: Walking murder scene silhouettes.
These lines mutated into a pattern in panels on garments suddenly coloured, wide-lapelled, and made in a spongily scuba-ish material. The models came out in pairs wearing tractor-soled boots in which they moved around each other on the runway like potential dance partners. A small pause preceded a series of loose silk pieces featuring subtly arresting colour play.
Then came a dress, skirt, and sweater called ‘Kone Kone’, which comprised rib-knit patches of red, grey, green, black, and yellow merged together, some loose checked pieces and a fringed and full knit dress shot through in its weave with countless different colours.
Finally, groups of models emerged wearing conjoined pieces of knitwear, sometimes as individuals and sometimes in groups as much as five strong. The colours began neutral, then turned Benetton bright, and each piece offered multiple arm, leg, and hand holes to allow its wearer(s) multiple choice dressing decisions.
At the end all the models connected through these knits before meandering back and forth down the runway in a single Miyake-meshed mass of human and wool. This was an attractive collection whose presentation was metaphorically meaningful too. – LUKE LEITCH