Hit me Balmain one more time

AP/ AFP – Spring found Rousteing in a philosophical mood, posing a fundamental question about fashion.

Contemporary houses constantly mine the 60s, 70s and 80s for inspiration. But are styles from the 34-year-old designer’s own youth — the 90s and early aughts — “too recent to consider”?

Cue a display in which Rousteing explored that era and, with no apology, “riffing on the distinctive sounds, spirit and styles of my youth”.

Britney Spears’ Baby One More Time blasted on the soundtrack as gentle, Barbie pink flares — as might befit the costumes of the 90s’ pop princess.

In contrast to Rousteing’s normally austere and structured looks, this 90s musing moved him in a softer direction. Monochrome and graphic prints graced models sporting 90s shades with hair parted at the side. While, polka-dot tuxedo jackets were constructed with a fluidity that nicely captured the heyday of, say, Janet Jackson.

While the concept of the show was admirable, in its execution there were some unintended fashion bumps owing to the over-exuberance of certain detailing.

On some asymmetrical looks, the weight of voluminous fabric at the midriff tugged down and produced an unpleasant off-kilter effect.